The Management Consulting Group

“The G6 coupe and convertible are uniquely Pontiac vehicles that
are great additions to the family started by the G6 sedan,” said
Jim Bunnell, Pontiac-GMC general manager. “The G6 coupe delivers
outstanding performance and generous interior room, and the G6
is the only hardtop convertible that has room for four adults.”
Both the G6 coupe and G6 convertible will be available in GT and
GTP models. The GTPs will feature a 240 horsepower 3.9L OHV V6
coupled to a 4-speed automatic with manual shift mode or a
6-speed manual in the coupe and sedan models - a package that
targets driving enthusiasts. From styling to interior fit,
finish and materials quality, interior room to driving dynamics,
the new G6 is a solid step up from the old model. The coupe and
convertible models have all-new body panels rearward of the
A-pillars. Large, wraparound tail lamps on both models create a
distinct look compared to the G6 sedan. LED-lit Center High
Mounted Stop Lamps (CHMSLs) on the coupe and convertible differ
from the traditional incandescent bulbs of the sedan’s CHMSL.
The coupe’s CHMSL is located at the base of the rear window,
while the convertible’s is a wider lamp incorporated into the
decklid, creating a distinct design element. Powered by the 3.5L
V-6, GT models produce 200 horsepower (149 kw) at 4800 rpm with
220 lb.-ft. of torque (302 Nm) at 4400 rpm. The 3500 engine is
backed by the Hydra-Matic 4T45-E electronically controlled
four-speed automatic transmission with manual shift mode. The
GTP models are powered by an all-new 3.9L HO V-6, which is rated
at 240 horsepower (179 kw) at 5900 rpm with 245 lb.-ft. of
torque (339 Nm) at 2800 rpm. It is paired in the standard
package with the Hydra-Matic 4T65-E with manual shift mode. It
also is available with a six-speed manual transmission in the G6
coupe. The GTs use the 4T45-E Hydra-Matic, and the GTPs use the
4T65-E Hydra-Matic, both with a manual shift mode rendered
superfluous with only four forward gears For all of your GM
needs you can browse through one of the largest GM Parts
suppliers in the Us at Parts Train. Search online for the latest
GM parts, accessories & products at
http://www.partstrain.com/ShopByVehicle/PONTIAC and you are on
your way to satisfying your Pontiac car parts needs.

There are two major categories in fuel savings:

• driving habits
• vehicle maintenance/upgrades

First, DRIVING HABITS:

1. Anticipate, use your brakes less, and don’t accelerate quickly. Look far down the road ahead, even if “far” is a city block. Get into turn-lanes smoothly and early: avoid accelerating to get in front of traffic. Anticipate stops or slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas: try to coast much more than you brake. Additional coasting distance saves fuel and extends brake-pad life.
   
   Remember: he who leaves stoplight quickest pays more at pump.
2. Use Cruise Control. It saves fuel and speeding tickets. But it’s not just for cruising. The “Resume” button can give you decent acceleration without wasting fuel.
3. Overdrive and gear selection. If your automatic has Overdrive, use it. If you have a manual transmission, shift early to keep engine rpm’s lower and always use the highest gear for highway cruising.
4. Slow down. As you increase speed above 60 mph, wind resistance increases rapidly as a percentage of total fuel consumption. Typically, every mile over 60 mph costs you ~1% in fuel economy.
5. Carefully consider your route and the time of day: traffic flow is a huge factor.
   For example, say that along your interstate travel route, the space between vehicles averages 3 to 4 car lengths… typical of traffic in many large cities. If it’s stop-and-go, fuel economy will be bad. But if traffic is moving smoothly and fast (at 60 - 80 mph), then fuel economy can be superb: those rushing vehicles create a jet-stream of air that dramatically reduces wind-drag losses. Up to 30% gains are possible. For maximum fuel economy, follow a larger vehicle and use cruise control. Also keep in mind wind direction: if the wind blows strongly from the right and you’re in the right lane, you’ll get NO break in wind resistance from vehicles ahead.
6. Plan and Combine errands to make fewer trips. Think like your great-grandparents did. Plan meals and grocery shop once a week to once a month: just make a list of other errands during the week, plan your route, and do it all in the same trip. Arrange with other parents to carpool or pick up the kids for you.
   Such planning may seem like work at first, but it frees up time, helps you relax, and can improve your average fuel economy by 5 to 15%. It can also cut your average weekly miles by 20% or more. Total dollar potential: save 10-35% of monthly fuel costs.
   
   How does this help fuel economy? During the first several miles while warming up, the engine and transmission are not operating efficiently. This is why city fuel economy can drop dramatically in cold weather, when it can take 10 miles for the engine and transmission to warm up. Automatic transmissions in particular can be power hogs when fluid is cold, and manual transmissions can feel like you’re shifting in molasses. (Hot/cold temperatures are one of many reasons to use a full-synthetic 100,000-mile transmission fluid).
   So, combining two or three trips into one reduces the miles you drive, and also gets you better fuel economy.
7. Use air conditioning wisely:
   - Keep your windows rolled up at speeds over 40 mph: the air turbulence around the window makes the air-conditioning cheaper than the fuel-economy penalty from additional wind-drag.
   - Turn off the air and roll down windows at speeds under 40 mph in the summer heat: the additional wind-drag is cheaper than the air-conditioning.
   Fuel economy impact? ~ 1-5%.
8. Buy fuel wisely. Ok, this isn’t actually improving your fuel economy, but here are some tips to save fuel money. Tuesday afternoon or Wednesday morning fill-ups will normally save you money: those are typically the lowest prices of the week. Also, filling up in the morning when the fuel is cooler will get you a few extra cents of fuel. So your best time to fill up is — on average — Wednesday morning. Don’t “top off” your tank: you risk losing fuel to the station’s vapor-recovery system, giving them back some fuel you’re buying.
9. Use a good fuel additive at fillup. Injectors with excessive deposits have poor spray patterns that can cost you 2 to 15% in fuel economy. Those deposits are caused by poor quality fuel. Since ‘95 the EPA has required all gasoline to have deposit-control additives. But about half of all gasoline on the market is lowest additive concentration (LAC) gasoline, which barely meets the regulation and contributes to excessive deposits.
   What can you do? First, if your vehicle is designed for premium gas, and you’re using it, your injectors may be fine: most premium fuels include higher additive levels that are effective at keeping injectors clean. However, what if you don’t use premium? Use “Top Tier” detergent gas –- if you can find it -– because this new fuel classification meets the 2004 GM/Honda/Toyota/BMW deposit control standard.
   
   If you don’t need premium and Top Tier isn’t available, you probably need an additive. BEWARE: there are many mousey fuel additive products that generate nice sales profits but do little for your vehicle. Find a good one that will actually clean your injectors, keep them clean, and (for diesels) lubricate your fuel pump. Our website suggests fuel additives that we know do the job with quality, for a fair price.
10. Lose some weight! Clean out your vehicle’s trunk (and maybe the back seat). Tools from that weekend project two months ago is costing you fuel! Every 200 pounds in your trunk costs you roughly 1 mpg.
11. Don’t drive! Carpool, occasionally ride a bicycle or walk, telecommute for part of your work-week, or take public transportation.
12. Shift your work-hours to avoid gridlock. Stop-and-go traffic is hard on fuel economy. Arrange traveling to/from work when traffic flow is running smoothly at the speed limit.
13. Minimize idling –- idle smart: Engines only need 10 seconds for warm-up before driving (30 seconds if below zero). Idling your engine more than a minute typically costs more fuel than re-starting it. So avoid drive-thru lines at banks and fast-food shops: instead of sitting in line, park and go inside. BUT, when you must idle with an automatic transmission, put the transmission in Neutral or Park while you’re waiting: this will cut fuel usage at idle by 10-40% depending on the vehicle and the transmission temperature. (With manual transmissions, use the brake to keep from rolling back - not the clutch. That saves fuel and extends clutch life.)
14. Park in the Shade: The hotter the fuel tank gets, the more gas you lose to evaporation.
15. Smart vacation thinking: If your vehicle is a gas guzzler, consider renting an economical vehicle to drive on vacation. With a discounted week-long rate at better fuel economy, the rental might pay for itself. If you lease your vehicle, using a rental vehicle will also lower your total lease miles.
16. Keep a log of your mileage and fuel. By monitoring your fuel economy and driving habits, you can see the cost impact of changing your driving style, and you can spot the poor fuel economy that is often a first-alert to maintenance issues. In addition, as you make changes to improve fuel economy, you can measure the exact results (averaged over five or more fill-ups for best accuracy).

Second: vehicle MAINTENANCE & UPGRADES.

These areas often get skipped in recommendations on getting better fuel economy. That’s unfortunate because they can have huge impacts.

Most fuel economy improvements fall into two general categories:

• decrease friction in the vehicle’s drivetrain (engine, transmission, differential, wheel bearings, tires);
• make it easier for air to flow through the engine, anywhere from the air intake to the exhaust tailpipe.

These are the same areas that performance-enthusiasts change to get more horsepower. I spoke with a Lexus mechanic who has won awards for his modified 2003 Dodge 2500 pickup with the Cummins turbo-diesel engine. He was surprised that with his many thousands of dollars in horsepower upgrades, he was getting about 23 mpg even with large tires and higher ground-clearance. “Every time I increased the power, the fuel economy improved.” No surprise to me: except for tires and suspension, he increased his truck’s efficiency with every power upgrade.

17. Keep your engine tuned up. If you have a dashboard service-engine light on, you’re likely wasting fuel. Example: bad Oxygen Sensors are a classic problem that can cost you 5-15% in fuel economy. Overall, poor engine tuning and lack of maintenance can decrease fuel economy by 10-20%, or more.
18. Inflate your tires to their optimum: HIGHER pressures than “normal”. Read carefully. You need EVEN road-contact pressure (equal across the tread) to maximize everything: tire life, fuel economy, bad weather traction, and best overall handling and cornering characteristics with increased road safety. Probably over 85% of car tires on the road are under-inflated, and this costs money in fuel and shorter tire life. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.
    
    “Experts” generally (wrongly) define the “proper” pressure as the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation. That’s what the government says. That’s what most service shops follow. Unfortunately, that’s seldom correct in your and my vehicle tires.
    
    Fact is that OEM wheel/tire combinations for most passenger cars and light trucks are designed by the TIRE manufacturer for even tread pressure on the ground when inflated to between 35 and 42 psi [pounds per square inch]: that optimum inflation range is much higher than the recommended 28 to 33 psi that are in many owner’s manuals or on door-jamb labels.
    If your tires normally wear the tread off the shoulder before the center of the tread, then your tires ARE under-inflated.

    So how much air pressure should you use? Visit our full online Ultimate Fuel Economy Guide for important details.
    
    Impact? By our conservative estimates, most vehicles are riding on tires that are 8 psi low, costing about 3% in fuel economy.

19. Watch your tire choice. Replacing your tires/wheels with wider and/or taller ones may look awesome, but keep in mind that your choice could have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy… or even more in extreme cases like “monster truck” tires/wheels.
20. Switch to best-quality synthetic oils and filters throughout your drivetrain: engine oil, transmission fluid, differential gear oil and wheel bearing grease. This advice — to use the best synthetic lubricants — is rarely heard, yet it’s an easy area to save money. You save in routine maintenance costs, long-term maintenance costs, time-in-the-shop, and of course in fuel economy. But unfortunately it’s not a simple area to understand. So here’s a brief primer on synthetic lubricants:

    The number of vehicle owners turning to synthetic engine oil has increased dramatically, because consumers are learning that synthetics are better than petroleum products in every way, BY DESIGN. More vehicle owners are beginning to realize what the OEM’s and quick-lubes don’t want them to know: that full synthetics can cut wear rates in half and outperform traditional oil for up to 35,000 miles between oil changes.

    But consumers don’t realize THREE KEY THINGS:

    First, that the benefits of synthetics extend to every lubrication area in the vehicle. For example, most transmissions fail because their transmission fluid has failed, either because the fluid hasn’t been changed frequently enough, or because the fluid overheated. Synthetic fluid helps hugely to prevent transmission problems, and naturally saves fuel at the same time.

    Real life: My ‘94 Taurus SHO got 10% better fuel economy with engine oil and transmission fluid change, my ‘02 Sierra 2500HD Duramax truck got 8% better fuel economy with just synthetic engine and differential fluids, an acquaintance picked up over 20% on a 37 foot gas-engine motor-home, and my friend Phillip’s 1999 Olds Silhouette van picked up 20% just by changing to synthetic engine oil — saving him over $600/yr in fuel.

    In other words, for most vehicles, high-performance synthetic lubricants are one of the simplest and best changes that you can make to improve fuel economy — yet it’s rarely mentioned! One reason is because it’s brand dependant. Most people will get 2 to 12% improvements in fuel economy, IF they use one particular brand of lubricants, but less or no improvement with other “synthetics”.

    Second, not all “synthetics” are real PAO synthetics. Today, in fact, most are fakes because the lubrication industry has agreed that it’s OK to deceive you. (Our site explains how to tell a true synthetic from a petroleum “synthetic”.)

    Why do you need real PAO synthetics, anyway? Because in every way they perform better than petroleum products — by design — and because they are uniquely able to save you the maximum amount of money with 25,000 and even 35,000 mile drain intervals, while other “synthetics” are designed for 7,000 to 10,000 mile use, to maximize petroleum-oil-company profits out of YOUR pocket.

    Third, not all real synthetics are the same. As a Mechanical Engineer who has worked for years in automotive, and done extensive research (see About Us on my site), I live in the everyday world of real results and have developed some strong recommendations based on data and verification with personal testing. In fuel economy, for example, ASTM standardized fleet testing results with one company’s synthetic lubes in commercial vehicles shows an average 8.2% improvement in fuel economy vs the common big-name commercial lubricants. (See this data on our site.)

    Few companies will show legally-binding data based on standardized (tightly defined) test parameters like this, because independent testing on their products will not produce favorable data to support their product claims. In comparison, hundreds of ASTM 4-ball Wear Test results in independent laboratories over years have shown that one company’s lubricants are consistently designed to reduce frictional wear and internal fluid-friction losses to a greater extent than even most synthetic lubricants. Friction reduction translates directly to better fuel economy and much longer-lasting vehicles.

    You want data from respected independent testing laboratories? Ahh –- so you know marketing claims are worthless! We have overall comparative testing data for many specific oil blends, including Mobil 1: ASTM testing by independent laboratories. While all the oil companies run these tests, generally only one company publishes significant data, while the others rely on vague performance claims and clever marketing slogans. Beware: test results against generic “competitor A, B, C” are legally meaningless. But published/advertised test data against named products is legally binding, with huge lawsuit potential from competitors.

21. Improve airflow AROUND your vehicle:
    
    - Loaded roof racks or cargo pods can cut 5% or more off your fuel economy. A cargo rack that slides into a trailer hitch allows you to carry extra stuff, still get into your trunk, and use less fuel.
    - Sunroof air-deflectors can be handy, but do cost you a bit of fuel. Removing the air deflector might save 1/4 to 3/4% in fuel economy.
    - Consider adding a truck bed cover, either soft-type or hard-shell, to get a 1 to 2 mpg boost. What about dropping your tailgate to travel, or replacing the stock tailgate with an “air gate” net or louvered tailgate? They’re not as reliable: results depend on vehicle aerodynamics, bed length, and what you do (or don’t) have in the truck bed.
    - Reduce air turbulence under your vehicle: “Off-road” packages with protective underbody “skid plates”, or “ground effects” styling packages can add 1-4% in fuel economy. The downside? The vehicle may be more difficult to service.
    - Adding an air deflector to the roof of your truck/SUV when towing will also add 1 to 3 mpg by reducing trailer wind-drag. But it can also reduce your non-towing fuel economy by about the same amount if it’s still in position on the vehicle when you’re NOT towing.
22. Improve airflow into the engine. This can happen in several stages of increasing complexity, but the first place is the air filter, where air enters your engine. If your filter is dirty, that reduces fuel economy — up to 10% in the worst cases. However, there’s a conflicting problem. Conventional filters should NOT be replaced before the OEM’s recommended interval or they will increase your engine wear rate: they rely on the “dust cake” buildup to achieve effective filtration, which unfortunately causes a pressure drop that reduces fuel economy.

    Easy Improvement: Replace your air filter with nanofiber filters born from military/aerospace technology. (Just released in 2005 with worldwide patents, and reasonably priced.) You get pressure drop nearly as low as an oiled gauze filter while filtering out 100% of wear particles down to 3 microns (for real). Clean with an annual tap/shake/vacuum. No warranty problems.

    Intermediate: The next thing to look at is the air-filter box design. Many OEM’s have a restrictive flow-path going into the air-box (to reduce engine air-intake noise, or to reduce water intake if you drive through a foot or two of water), including lots of internal stiffener ribs. Sure, the improved strength from ribs may enable you to stand or kneel on the air-box, but they often cause pressure-drop and turbulence.
    
    There are two improvement routes: an aftermarket air-induction system, or DIY modifications.

    The best route is to look at replacing the entire air-intake box and filter with an aftermarket “air induction” or “air intake” kit.
    
    Caution: oiled gauze filters won’t keep out many wear particles, so they produce high engine wear-rates. Plus, excess “tack oil” can cause reduced fuel economy and trouble with warranty coverage at many dealers. Choose wisely — go for the OEM certified nanofiber solution if one is available for your vehicle, because nanofiber air filters are the best technical and economical compromise between no filter at all and a restrictive stock filter. The minimum intake choice should include a two-stage dual-density oiled-foam filter: far better than oiled-gauze. If you can’t get at least that in an aftermarket air induction system, then we recommend skipping it: upgrade to a nanofiber air filter, and consider modifying the stock air-box as we outline on our website.
    Advanced: see our site for these details.
    
    Our easy, intermediate-level and advanced airflow improvement suggestions can realistically net you from 2% up to a maximum 8% improvement in fuel economy.

23. Improve airflow out of the engine: Install an aftermarket exhaust system. These have larger diameter pipes and larger, less restrictive mufflers. My point isn’t to get louder, but to reduce “backpressure” losses which cut down on horsepower, torque and fuel-economy. Since increased noise is typical, and some systems are intentionally designed to be loud, you may want to shop for the exhaust sounds you do or don’t want.
24. Upgrade to a more fuel-efficient vehicle. Careful. Companies and sales people want to make money on your vehicle switch, so watch out for your best interests. First, price matters. You have to save a lot of fuel to pay for a big difference in vehicle price. Paying hybrid premiums to get more fuel economy probably won’t begin to pay you back before you sell the vehicle. Second, real-world driving shows many hybrids don’t live up to their mpg hype. (See our surprising comparison in the online detailed version of this, between hybrids and turbo-diesel vehicles.)
25. Finally, be cautious in your search for improved fuel economy: don’t waste money on fake fuel-economy improvements. Many products are total fakes or hugely exaggerated. Most companies tiptoe around those realities, but I don’t. So here’s the truth:
    
    - Most “oil additive” or engine “metal treatment” products are or will be embroiled in lawsuits in a number of states. If an oil additive claims a fuel economy improvement over 1%, forget it. Lubrication Engineers explain that oil is a highly engineered chemical package, and that if you want better performance you must buy better oil. Base your choice on published, standardized ASTM test results. That’s the best and cheapest way to get better lubrication performance.
    - Fuel treatments/additives and catalysts? 2-15% gains are available, with the biggest improvements for vehicles with a long diet of cheap LAC (Lowest Additive Concentration) fuel. Question the cost vs value. The answer is Yes to some good ones, No to some poor ones, and “why bother” to a lot of them. Question who to trust, and research what you buy.
    
    - A mechanical or electronic aftermarket product? Fundamentally, if it isn’t actually improving airflow through the engine/exhaust, it’s probably NOT going to boost fuel economy. Our site has specific “improvement” examples that WON’T save fuel.

Brian Dobben holds a Bachelor’s in Mechanical Engineering Technology (BSMT), from LeTourneau University. He has served in manufacturing and automotive industries since 1988 in Mechanical and Welding Engineering, with a specialty in welding automation. He has done research in lubrication and filtration, is certified as a lubrication specialist, and is currently the Welding Manufacturing Manager for an OEM automotive supplier who leads the world in quality in their market, growing over 20% a year. His professional passion is improving profits and quality.
Brian created Ultimate-Synthetic-Oil.com as a service to the public: dedicated to lubrication and filtration education, exposing hype & deception, and helping people identify and buy superior lubricant and filter products at wholesale pricing.

You’ve just read a “bare” version of this guide. The latest full, unabridged version is located at Ultimate Fuel Economy Guide.

So, you need new tires for your car or truck, but how do you
know what to buy? What do all those alphanumeric codes printed
on the tire sidewalls mean, anyway?

If you’re in the market for new tires, you may simply want to
replace your worn tires with exactly the same tire it came with.
But you MAY want to consider an upgrade. If you know how to read
the tire sidewalls, chock full of valuable information, you’ve
got an advantage over most people and are prepared to make an
informed decision. So let’s get underway!

Tire Size Markings (example: P215/65R15 89H)

Broken down: P = Passenger Other designations are LT = Light
Truck T = Temporary (spare tire)

215 is the width (in millimeters) of the tire from sidewall to
sidewall. A wider tire has more grip but the bad news is that
you lose fuel economy, hear more noise and the tires don’t work
as well in the rain.

65 is the aspect ratio The aspect ratio is the ratio of sidewall
height to tire width. With regards to aspect ratio, the larger
the number, the taller the tire sidewall. Tall (60-75) is great
for a quiet ride but causes howling in turns. Short (35-55) is
better for handling–more for sports cars.

R indicates Radial. This means it is constructed with a series
of support belts sideways under the tread. Other designations
include B for Belted Bias and D for Diagonal Bias The standard,
and what you’ll see most often, is R.

15 is the wheel (or rim) diameter, in inches.

89 is the load index H is the speed rating Speed ratings
indicate the top speed under ideal conditions. Higher-rated
tires are usually made of softer rubber and will have shorter
UTQG tread life. Here are a few of the more common speed
ratings: R= 106, S=112, T=118, U=124, H=130, V=149, W=168,
Y=186. Along with this speed rating, you have a load index which
indicates the approximate weight the tire can carry. Some of the
more common load weights are as follows: 85 = 1,135 pounds, 86 =
1,168 pounds, 87 = 1,201 pounds, 88 = 1,235 pounds.

UTQG Ratings

Passenger car tires are accompanied by a UTQG Rating (Uniform
Tire Quality Grading, mandated by the Federal Government) which
rates the tread life of tires by looking at tread wear, traction
and temperature resistance. The UTQG Rating is usually found
opposite the tire size markings and will be in three separate
ratings: treadwear, traction and temperature.

The treadware grade standard is 100. A grade of 200 means the
tread would wear twice as well as a tire graded 100.

Traction grades run from AA to C, with AA being the highest
grade and C meaning the tire brakes poorly on both wet concrete
and wet asphalt.

Temperature grades rate the tire’s resistance to and ability to
dispel heat. Those grades are A (resists heat well), B (not as
good as A) and C (passes minimum safety standards.) Keep in mind
that heavy loads, under-inflation of the tires, and high speeds
can all affect the tire temperature.

You should note that these tire grades rate tires measured under
controlled conditions. Factors such as driving habits, road
conditions, climate, etc., are not considerations and may affect
the actual performance of your tire.

DOT

DOT (Department of Transportation) indicates the tire is in
compliance with applicable DOT safety standards. Next to DOT is
an identification or serial number–codes that designate where
and when the tire was produced.

You’ll also find other information on the sidewall such as the
type and composition of the tire, the maximum cold inflation
(PSI) and maximum load in pounds.

So as you can see, tires carry a huge amount of information. But
it’s really not all that complicated once you learn to read the
code.

If you are looking for a car audio system and would love to save a little money when purchasing, you should consider buying a used system. Many people think you can only get quality sound from new equipment, but that is not true. You can find great packages that are sold directly from another consumer if you know what you are looking for. There are a few things to remember before making a purchase however. If you are considering buying a used system, think about these things before you throw down any cash.

The first thing to consider is what you need. You should always be aware of what your automobile can handle before purchasing a used system. When you go to a store to purchase new equipment, the salesperson usually assists you on knowing what you need. When you are purchasing from a consumer however, you may not be getting correct information. Since most consumers won’t offer a refund policy, you will need to know that the equipment will work on your car before buying it.

The best way to figure out what you need is to go your research. Go to a salesperson or a audio specialist and ask them about the specific equipment you are looking at. Ask them if it will work in your car. You may even have to let them inspect your car, but they can likely tell you whether or not it will work over the phone. After you know that the equipment will work for your car, you will need to make sure the equipment works as it should. Ask to test the equipment, if it is not in a car at the time.

If you cannot test the equipment, you might not want to purchase it. Even though someone might tell you it works fine, they may not be as honest as you would like to think. Most sellers are honest, but there are a few who will try to trick you and you don’t want to be their next victim. So, be sure that you know what you need for your current automobile and be sure the car audio system you are looking at is still usable. If you do these two things, you will be able to save yourself a lot of money by purchasing used quality equipment. It is always great to save money, but you only want to purchase used equipment that will work for you. If you don’t, then you really haven’t saved anything at all.

Everything you need to know about car audio, from purchasing the best value to choosing the right speakers.

The sales of discount motorcycle tires over the internet are one
of the fastest growing in the motorcycle parts, accessories and
related products market. But are you in a position to take
advantage of them? Michael Holmes takes you through the pros and
cons of buying discount motorcycle tires…

Picture this scene. You are surfing the net, looking for some
extra chrome to stick on your pride and joy (that’s your
motorcycle not your 4 year old daughter by the way), when you
come across a site selling discount motorcycle tires. Not just
discount tires; positively slashed bare to the bone discount
motorcycle tires! You think back three weeks earlier, when you
had your new tires fitted at your local shop. The little fat
bald guy who sells tires told you they were cheap right? You do
some quick sums in your head and realise you paid twice as much
as the ones advertised on the web. Your blood starts to boil,
you start to mutter under your breath, all those unutterables
that you definitely don’t want your four year old to hear.

And you swear, there and then, NEVER to buy your tires from the
shop in town again. Oh, no, from now on your will order discount
motorcycle tires online….

……that’s great, really great. But let me ask you this;

Do you actually know HOW to fit a motorcycle tire? Because I
hate to be the one to shatter your dreams of discount motorcycle
tire heaven, but if you don’t know how to change a tire, you
could be in an extremely embarrassing situation of asking your
local shop to fit discount motorcycle tires that you had the
nerve to go and buy behind his back! And how much do you think
he will charge you for that dubious privilege? (That much? Now
double it mate!)

So a little bit of personal development is in order. Now don’t
be put off, you can still take advantage of those cheap tires,
you just need to learn how to fit them yourself. And it is not
as difficult as it sounds or as high tech as it looks in the
tire shop downtown. The difficult bit is actually getting the
tire off the rim, and the fiddliest part of that is breaking the
bead, which is the seal that the motorcycle tire makes with the
rim. Under pressure after a few thousand miles, that tire is
going to be well bedded in. But, you can buy a bead breaking set
for less than 200 dollars. If you search around you will quickly
find some guidelines for building your own tire removal and
fitting station. Heck if you are really keen you will find a way
of breaking the bead on your motorcycle tire using nothing but a
2″ by 4″ piece of timber and a pick up truck (I kid you not !) I
must confess that last method looked a little risky even for me
to attempt.

After breaking the bead, a bit of brute force and manhandling
(on the tire not the wife) and you should be able to fit your
discount motorcycle tires with pride.

Oh a couple of points, make sure the bead is seated properly
around the rim when you put some air in those suckers. All the
literature you will find on changing tires will mention this,
but if you don’t get the tire seated properly, it could cause
some major “issues” later on. And the tire will probably need
balancing. Some makes claim they don’t, but most do. That’s all
on the web as well.

That’s about it really. The rest is up to you. Do your homework
and you too could be taking advantage of all those discount
motorcycle tires; one set for winter, one set for summer, one
set for track days…

Just remember the general idea is to SAVE money buying
discounted motorcycle tires, not spend more, OK?

Defensive driving is defined as being able to operate a motor
vehicle with the skills to avoid an accident in a situation
where one could possibly occur.

Defensive driving is based on the premise that you, the driver,
are actually a very good and safe driver that must be alert and
able to react to the dangerous driving that others are engaging
in.

Defensive driving utilizes advanced skills and awareness not
initially taught to new drivers. The goal of one taking a
defensive driving class is to become a proactive driver, in
order to avoid dangerous road situations or the poor conduct of
other drivers. Specific techniques and basic rules are used to
achieve a safer driving experience.

Defensive driving courses are taught across the United States,
as well as other countries. Defensive driving schools are
sometimes referred to as traffic schools, depending upon the
regional area.

In Texas, the term “defensive driving course” is used, while in
New York they tend to use the term “traffic school.” Anybody can
take defensive driving courses to brush up on skills or to
qualify for discounts on car insurance premiums.

Most often, individuals are referred to defensive driving
courses after being ticketed for a moving violation or having
been in an accident. Depending upon the laws of the
municipality, the documented completion of a defensive driving
course can allow for a dismissal of the ticket.

The word “Diesel” should no longer make you picture semi-trucks, or loud, clunky broken down cars. Diesel over the past twenty years has changed by leaps and bounds and has become more popular now than ever.

If you rode around in a diesel vehicle in the 80’s, you are probably screaming “gasoline is better” at the top of your lungs. This is excusable due to the fact that twenty years ago
diesels were extremely loud and unreliable. Luckily for us, technology has come to the rescue in the form of reliability. Diesel cars are now commonly seen running with over 250,000 miles of use. Though gasoline engines can hang in there for quite a long time themselves, getting to the quarter million point, with proper maintenance, is unlikely.

Life expectancy is definitely a plus when comparing diesel and gas cars. What about maintenance? Well, diesel engines don’t use an ignition so you have no tune-up costs or worries. They use glow plugs rather than spark plugs which generally need to be changed every two years or so plus or minus a few months depending on the vehicle. As far as oil changes, they work the same as gas engines—change the oil every 3,000 miles and you’ll be fine. Fuel and air filters should be changed regularly as needed, of course.

Now, the all important numbers. If we start with upfront costs, the diesel seems more expensive, and a comparison of the same make and model car yields a cost difference of about three
thousand dollars between the diesel and gasoline versions. But is diesel really more expensive? Let’s examine the question.

Diesel fuel is almost always cheaper than unleaded gas, and how much cheaper varies of course with rising and falling gas prices. But The cost savings do not stop at the pump; they continue as you drive down the road and by this we are talking fuel economy. The diesel is the king of this domain. With some
diesels getting over 70 mpg, this is by far the best bang for the buck.

So the diesel wins in fuel economy and maintenance. But are there disadvantages to diesel? Well, diesel engines aren’t perfect. They can be a little noisier than gas engines, though this small amount of noise usually fades at cruising speed. They also lack a bit in acceleration compared to gas engines.

However, despite these small shortcomings, diesels are certainly becoming more user friendly and more economical and each day more and more people are choosing to go this route. It’s even quite possible that one day the majority of our motor vehicles will be diesel powered. However, until then you have the information needed to consider whether or not the diesel will be a contender for your next vehicle purchase.

The author of this article is Tim Moore, who publishes a website on Fibromyalgia which features a section on Fibromyalgia and Social Security Disability

I grew up in the era of moms and dads teaching us to drive. Yes we had Driver’s Ed, however, Driver’s Ed classes didn’t start until our senior year, by then most of us already knew how to drive. After all, at 16 we all wanted the coveted “learners permit!”

My father taught me to drive. First we went over the basics, starting, stopping, the gauges, how the car worked, what to do on wet, dry roads, turns, and anything else my father could think of to have me prepared for any situation. Things you weren’t going to get from Drivers Ed. My dad shared his many years of experience, and it made me a better driver than most of my female and many of my male counterparts.

Then, he took me into mid-Manhattan and told me to drive. For those of you who don’t know about NY traffic or mid Manhattan, it is absolute chaos. In amongst this chaos is the heralded NY
taxi driver. “Believe me”, my father said, “if you can drive with the taxis, you can drive anywhere and will be ready for anything.” And he was right. Plus, in New York you had better know how to parallel park and to do it quickly, because if you took too long someone else was in there. My father actually had a stop watch and we practiced out on Long Island for several weekends and then back to the city we went.

My father also insisted that I learn to drive and maneuver going backwards. I didn’t ask why, I just did it. We lived by a high school and we went into the back parking lot and I have to drive backwards around the lot more times than I want to even think about. Believe me when I say I could drive backwards as well as I did going forward.

We also practiced around the cones, moving in and out of them, without knocking them over. If I knocked it over, I had to put it back up and then do it again until I could do it without knocking any over, going faster and faster each time. Very helpful when I had to make quick maneuvers on the Long Island Expressway. Also turned out to be very helpful in Funkanas and other events entered during the years.

So, who taught you how to drive? Drop us a line and let us know.

DeFiore Enterprises, Copyright 2005

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The Chevrolet Camaro was a “pony car” introduced by General Motors in 1967 to compete with the Ford Mustang, which by the way was conceived to compete with the Chevrolet Corvair Monza. There are four distinctive generations of Camaro’s, 1967-1970, 1970 1/2 - 1980, 1982-1992, and the fourth and final generation was 1993-2002.

The first generation Camaro featured a unibody construction from the windshield to the firewall back and a separate steel frame for everything upfront. The first Chevrolet Camaro was available in both convertible and hardtop styles. There were eighty factory options and 40 dealer options available for the Camaro. The Camaro was offered with engines ranging from a 230 cubic inch six cylinder to a 327 V8.

The first generation SS package was the most popular. It offered a modified 350 cid V8 with an available 396 big block producing 325 hp.

In December of 1966 the famous Z-28 option was introduced. The Z-28 was a base Camaro that came with front disc brakes and power assist and a Muncie 4 speed transmission. The Z-28 also came with broad racing stripes on the hood and trunklid and a competition suspension.

There were minor changes made in the 1968 Camaro such as multi-leaf rear springs. In 1969 the Camaro was redesigned inside as well as outside. The Camaro received a make over including fenders, door skins, grille and taillights to mention only a few. There was a new dash and more comfortable seats. A V8 427 cid was also available.

The second generation of Camaro lost some of it’s power due to the tightening emission regulations and a fuel crisis. The 155 hp 250 cubic inch V6 was the standard engine offering. The largest engine available was on the SS mode, a 350 or 375 hp 396 big block V8.

The third generation of Camaro saw the introduction of the IROC-Z, named after the International Race of Champions. Along with unique graphics the IROC featured a Tuned Port Injection that produced 215 hp.

The last year of production for the Camaro was 2002.

This article courtesy of www.carparade.net

Choosing truck accessory products can be both fun and functional. Many truck owners use their trucks for their jobs, and therefore they often must carry the “tools of their trade” in their trucks. But for some truck owners, a truck accessory must also make a statement about their personality and their lifestyle. Whether your truck is an “oldie but goodie” or a brand new model, you can find an interior or exterior truck accessory that will enhance your ride and your experience as a truck owner and driver.

A Truck Accessory for the Interior

Are you into the latest technology? If so, you may want to install a GPS system in your truck so you never have to ask for directions or maybe a laser or radar detector so you can keep a watchful eye out. If you are a music fan, if you don’t have a CD Stereo System you might want to invest in one, or another popular truck accessory choice-a satellite radio.

The security of your truck is important as well. You can get custom steering wheel locks that match the interior of your truck, or you can get a tracking device or a car alarm or security system to deter thieves.

The final type of interior truck accessory discussed in this article is the not necessarily practical accessory. You can get a custom steering wheel or steering wheel cover, or seat covers in almost any print or fabric or leather or even beads. You can get custom floor mats or dashboard mats and even a cool gear shift handle.

Truck Accessory Choices for the Exterior

You know that having your truck look good on the outside may be more important than the inside, but there are some practical accessories for the interior that you may find useful-and some of them are designed to enhance the looks of your truck as well.

The bed of the truck is an area where many people spend money on accessorizing with a liner or a tonneau cover. You can also get racks or toppers to hold or protect your equipment if you are a professional who carries things like ladders or tools. A tool box is another accessory that can be built right into the bed of the truck to secure the items you need to transport.

Other exterior accessories include things like grilles, chrome rims or wheels, steps to the cab, or mirrors and even decals.

Eriani Doyel writes articles about Trucks. If you would like more information about choosing a truck accessory visit daytruck.com