The Management Consulting Group

Golf carts have often been seen at golf courses but these are fast becoming a vehicle that is seen in other places such airport and resorts. Their versatility means that they are often used as a utility vehicle to transport goods and people quickly, efficiently and most importantly, without harmful environmental effects unlike their automotive counterpart - the car.Due to this the Government have been keen to allow golf carts on the streets and yesterday, more some of the cities of Iowa were given the green light - making the use golf carts on the streets completely legal. The Chicago Tribute reports:”Dick Harger doesn’t play golf, but you can often find the retiree riding his golf cart on the streets of Ely.Harger’s small town in Linn County is among a growing number of Iowa cities allowing golf carts on their streets as easy, low-cost transportation amid high gasoline prices, according to the Iowa League of Cities. Golf carts have long been popular for running errands and visiting friends in retirement communities in Florida and other Southern states. Now the idea is catching on throughout the country, industry officials said.”Due to this, people will be able to use golf carts on the streets as long as they have a license and use adequate signage to indicate a slow moving vehicle. With this change in law, the number of people looking for golf carts for sale are expected to go up as golf carts can be run on electricity making them much cheaper to run and affordable than cars.

I’m going to take a closer look at three sources where you are most likely to find the lowest used car prices. You have to do a little legwork upfront, but compared to what you’ll save by following this strategy, it is well worth it. The best sources are your local newspaper’s classified ad section, quality car buying gudes and car auctions.

Here follows a more detailed view of these three sources for low used auto prices.

Newspapers

Go to your local newspaper and look up the classified ads section. In almost every case you’ll find lower prices here than the car retail prices. This is also a great alternative way for auto sellers compared to taking their cars to dealers for trade ins. They will get more for their car, and you will pay less than the retailer prices. You can save hundreds of dollars and maybe thousands depending of which car you deal with, and the seller will do the same. The only person that wouldn’t benefit from this is the dealer.

Car Buying Guides

A guide like this is a list of cars for sale in a certain area. A real quality online guide has a list of every car in a chosen area, and also enables you to sort the list by dozens of features. It normally keeps track of every search you made and includes capacities that inform you later if something you searched for without success should turn up later. These guides will also normally give you a vehicle history report on each car listed. The right online guide for the lowest automobile prices can make your vehicle searcing process a game.

There are a few quality car price guides available online. Instead of surfing the internet for hours, and getting overwhelmed by thousands of pages of information, it’s very convenient to have an easy accessible system, that find what you are looking for with a few clicks of the mouse . First and foremost I will recommend the following:

• Nada Guides - http://www.nadaguides.com/ For over 70 years, N.A.D.A. Appraisal Guides has been America’s largest publisher of used vehicle values.
• Kelley Blue Book - http://www.kbb.com/ Kelley has been in the market guiding Car Buyers for over 75 years now, and is maybe the biggest authority in this business.
• Carfax- http://www.carfax.com/ This online guide has a nationwide database and provides a detailed vehicle history report in just seconds.
• Edmunds - http://www.edmunds.com/ is also a well reputated vehicle price guide.

Vehicle Auctions

• Government Auctions include vehicles from Department of Defense, Department of Housing and Urban Development, U.S. Postal Services, FBI, IRS and more. The chances to make a great bargain there are high.
• Public Car Auctions. Many auctions are limited to people with a Dealer’s License. These auctions however, are open for anybody. These auctions are mostly repossessions by Banks, Finance Companies and Lending Institutions. Here you can buy motorcars at wholesale prices.
• Bankruptcy Auctions are also excellent sources for purchasing autos at low prices. The easiest way to locate these auctions is to check the classified section of the newspaper.
• Car Rental Companies such as Budget, Enterprise and Dollar are continually renewing their arsenal of rentals. They often sell their cars by auction. Here you can really find a bargain. Check out the largest of these companies, either by contacting them or looking up their websites.
• Many vehicle dealers also possess auctions. Here you can even get cars at below wholesale prices. However, to bid at the majority of these auctions, you must have a dealer’s license.

There are auctions with or without reserve. This means that they don’t have a minimum price.

It’s easiest to do it online

The number of online used vehicle websites are groving. As far as I have experienced, the internet is the best place to find cheap used cars. It is also the easiest, fastest and most confortable way. You can do almost everything you need from the comfort of your own home.

Many people are afraid to buy cars online, because they think it is not reliable. There certainly are websites out there that are not serious. But I’ll tell you this: If you chose one or more from the sites mentioned in this article, I can guarantee a and top-notch reliability. This selection consist of recommended sellers only. Believe me; you have nothing to fear.

The internet is the best place for saving, selection and trust when it comes to car purchase, as long as you deal with recommended low price used car selling websites. And you’ll also avoid the stress of buying a vehicle, which normally follows the traditional way of doing this purchase.

Terje Brooks Ellingsen is a writer and internet publisher. He runs the
website cheap-used-cars.w-eland.com
Terje gives advice and helps people with automotive issues like finding cheap used car and online used car sales

Could there be a more generically named group of vehicles than those
lumped together as “midsize cars?”

The Honda Accord, Toyota Camry, Chevrolet Malibu and Nissan Altima
are all in the category, and all enjoy a loyal consumer following.

The Mazda 6 is also in the same group. And while not as refined as the
Accord or Camry, the Mazda 6 — available in 16 configurations — is a
sporty alternative. In fact, with a wagon, hatchback and turbocharged,
274-horsepower edition among the options, the Mazda 6 greatly
expands the boundaries of the class.

My weekly test drive was Grand Sport model. It has a 3.0-liter, 24-valve,
V6 with 215 horsepower and a five-speed manual transmission. The
sedan is actually a five-door hatchback.

But with its bright exterior (Volcanic Red), black leather seats and solid
black interior, the Mazda 6 looks more like a sports car.

It also performs like it doesn’t belong in the midsize class.

The car has impressively strong takeoff speed, with 0-60 mph tests
accomplished in 7.5 seconds, according to Consumer Guide. With its
18-inch tires and alloy wheels, dual exhaust outlets and rear spoiler, the
Mazda even further fits the sports car mode. And with its easy shifting
ability, the Mazda is fun around town or on country roads.

But without getting too carried away, the Mazda 6 is also a versatile
sedan. With its hatchback entry, it’s a good choice for a family vehicle
with easy access and a deep cargo area good for plenty of groceries or
any reasonable transporting task.

The Mazda 6 really has few shortcomings. It has good interior space
and straightforward instrumentation design and functionality. The car
maneuvers well in traffic, it’s sufficiently quiet and the ride quality, while
not quite as nice as the Accord, is on par with other vehicles in the class.

Standard features include: High intensity discharge headlamps, fog
lights, heated outside mirrors, leather seats, heated front seats, 60/40
split fold-down rear seats, tilt and telescopic steering wheel, rear
window wiper and washer, AM/FM in-dash six-disc CD changer,
automatic climate control and power moonroof.

Two small but convenient features are the side cupholder in the front
door map pocket and the rear seat armrest with additional cupholders.

One criticism is the rear spoiler. The Mazda 6 is about as sporty as a
sedan can get, but the feature hardly seems necessary. Its position
simultaneously obscures the rear window view and annoyingly divides
the remaining driver’s rear visibility into two distinct sections.

The Weekly Driver: 2006 Mazda 6

Safety features — Dual front, side air and side curtain airbags.

Fuel Mileage (estimates) — 19 mpg (city), 27 mpg (highway).

Warranty — Bumper to bumper, 4 years/48,00 miles; Corrosion,
5 years/Unlimited miles; 24-hour Roadside Assistance program, 4
years/50,000 miles.

Base price — $27,710.

I was forced to start looking at potential replacements for the stock Bridgestone Potenza RE040 (225/45/18) slightly after hitting 25,000 miles on them. I was hard pressed by economic reasons to find the cheapest possible tires that would offer a similar or higher tread life (higher was better) and a decent level of performance on dry surfaces, as well as wet. I eliminated a few candidates before settling for the Sumitomo HTRs, namely:

• Fuzion ZRi: Funky looking tread pattern. In other words, all-show-no-go.


• Yokohama AVS ES100: Pretty decent reviews overall, but…heck! ended up over budget!


• Dunlop SP Sport FM901: Had mixed feelings about these, and some pointed to another flavor of Fuzion ‘philosophy.’


• Nitto NT555: These tires received good reviews overall from the quarter mile crowd, which didn’t quite say much about the tire ability to turn…so, discarded.


• Sumitomo HTR Z II: Out of stock!

So after a brief discussion with a TireRack sales guy, he recommended the Sumitomo HTR+. First I was hesitant to go for an all-season tire. I thought to myself “All seasons on the 8? No way! But slowly I realized that I didn’t have much of a choice in the price range I was shopping in. And so I ended up shelling out my credit card to purchase a set of 4 Sumitomo HTR+ in 245/40/18. The rolling stock ends up being something close to
1% bigger than the stock Potenzas. In other words, no big deal.

My first impressions

I got the tires installed and the suspension checked and aligned at Christensen Tire, here in Richardson. In all, the entire install took the a couple hours. I immediately jumped back in the car and drove off. The first thing I noticed was the engine and exhaust note -I am running on a completely stock Mazda RX8. And I could actually appreciate the engine reving up and down over the tire noise. Let me take that back: What tire noise? So, the first impression was a nice one.

However, happiness only lasted one corner. The first time I had to turn, I noticed a tremendous mushiness(sp) on the steering. On my way home, I kept praying for the tire pressure to be extremely low, therefore giving that soft feeling. Well, tire pressure was not it, I checked all 4 cornerns and all 4 were pinned @ 39psi. The tires were actually over-inflated from recommended pressure. The responsible was obviously a very soft and tall sidewall. There is a superimposed photo of the Sumitomos and the Potenzas below. You can see that both tires have similar “total” height when mounted; however, the Potenzas had a slightly rounded sidewall, and a much better lip to protect the wheels. On the other hand, the Sumitomos have a straighter(sp) sidewall, which apparently robs it from stifness.

I will try and rotate these tires every 5,000 miles. Reason being, on the last Potenza rotation, the tires that spent the last 7,500 miles on the rear were badly worn out (evenly worn though). And I’d like to keep the Sumitomos in the best shape possible.

Miguel P. is a college student seeking an Associates in Applied Science, currently working full time in the IT industry. He has a passion for autmobiles, specially those powered by rotary engines. You can contact Miguel or read more material at MyRotaryCar.com

Just imagine speeding down the highway. Just imagine the sun on
your face and the wind on your hair. Just imagine the feeling of
being one with your car and the road as well. Feels great,
doesn’t it? This time, imagine trying to slow down your descent
however finding out that your Rover brakes do not work. Now that
would be a great misfortune.

An automobile’s brake system has been continually refined and
redefined for over a century. Automobiles without brakes would
not a great thing for drivers and passengers would be very much
prone to accidents, collisions, and crashes. The modern
automotive brakes system has now become extremely independent,
dependable, indispensable, and very efficient. All these are due
to the experiences of drivers and innovations of automobile
experts.

The Rover brake system of an automobile generally consists of
disk brakes. They are mounted and installed in the front and
rear ends of the automobile. The disk brakes, or also known as
drum brakes, installed in the rear is connected by a system of
tubes and hoses. These then link the Rover brake at each wheel
and connect them to the master cylinder. If a person looks more
closely into an automobile’s brake system, he would be able to
discover that there are other systems that are connected to this
system. These other systems include the parking brakes, the
power brake booster, and the anti-lock system.

If a person steps on the Rover brake pedal what actually happens
is that he is actually pushing against the plunger found in the
master cylinder. By doing such action, it forces the hydraulic
oil or brake fluid to go through a series of tubes and hoses to
the braking unit at each wheel. The concept behind this is that
hydraulic fluid, or any other kind of fluid, cannot be
compressed. By pushing the fluid through the pipe, this produces
the same action and reaction of like pushing a steel bar through
a pipe.

However, the main difference between the hydraulic fluid and a
steel bar is that the hydraulic fluid has the capacity to be
directed through many twists and turns on its way to its
destination while a steel bar has no capacity to do so. Upon
going through its own maze, it arrives back to its original
location and state so that it could be used once again. What is
essential, though, is to keep the liquid free from air bubbles.
If there are air bubbles in the liquid this actually slows down
and reduces the vehicle’s braking system’s efficiency. If this
actually happens, the entire braking system must undergo a
bleeding where the air can be removed. Each wheel cylinder and
caliper has “bleeder screws” that facilitate the release of any
air in the fluid.

With all the attention to details that the Land Rover and Range Rover company gives to the vehicles
that they manufacture, it is only fitting that Land Rover Parts
and Range Rover Parts offers top of the line brakes and brake system parts that will
match Land Rover and Range Rover brake performance. Land Rover
Parts and Range Rover Parts’ online store has everything covered
when it comes to brakes and parts of the brake system.

Riding the motorcycle has always been hazardous. That is the
main reason vehicles riders prefer automobiles rather than
motorcycles. More and more motorcycle accidents have been
reported each year that is why there have been strict rules
implemented in motorcycle riding to decrease such cases.

Helmets are specially made to protect the motorcycle rider form
encountering hazards in the highways. The rules on wearing
helmets have been strictly implemented and it has been found out
that cases of accidents have been lessened. This was achieved
and continuously helped the people understand that it’s not just
about wearing one but for life saving matters too.

Helmets can save your head from a deadly accident. Helmets
should be worn properly and should fit your head size properly.
Wearing a well-fitted helmet is appropriate and more secure
especially if it has fastening belts for you to tighten and
adjust with comfort.

There are different kinds of wearable helmets for your choice
and depending upon the type of motorcycle you drive. There are
exclusive helmets for dirt bikes, sport bikes and speed bikes.
For fast riding, a full face covered helmet should be worn to
prevent too much air from getting into your face and eyes.
Imagine riding a fast lane at top speed with the air smashing
into your face? That’s very rude. This type of head gear offers
full protection and comfort features. It also protects your ears
from too much engine noise on the road.

The open face helmet is still quite risky because it only
protects the upper half of your head but not entirely. This kind
of helmet is not really very advisable for usage. The only
advantage of this is that it’s cheap. But would you cut short
your money for an expensive hospital bill when you aren’t caught
by luck on the streets? Very few riders purchase this kind of
helmets because it offers slight protection and for some, they
consider it not cool because of its design and built.

Off road are dirt helmets which are used for racing purposes. In
racing, riders should be very sure of their helmets because
racing invites most of the risk to committing accidents. Before
riding, they should make sure that their head gears fit their
size. If not very exact, at least choose the helmet which is
next to your head size.

No matter how heavy you feel in wearing these head gears, think
twice and think of your safety and it will pay off everything.
If you aren’t comfortable in wearing one, think of its worth and
life-saving offers and it will pay off everything. Don’t put
your life to risk over some laziness.

For comments and inquiries about the article visit
http://www.bestmotorcycleparts.com

The goal of the Toyota FTSX concept is to have the space and
ride height of an SUV with the comfort, handling, and efficiency
of a sedan. “We began with a totally new silhouette and package,
lower and wider than an SUV, but taller, more comfortable, and
more versatile than a sedan. Add a powerful V6, all-wheel drive,
21-inch wheels, four doors, a large, multi-function glass roof
and an innovative rear hatch and you have a vehicle with
exceptional functionality,” remarked Kevin Hunter, vice
president, design and studio activities at Calty Design
Research, Inc. Powered by a 3.5 liter V6 engine, the FT-SX is
187 inches long, 74.4 inches wide, and 61 inches tall. It uses
21-inch wheels (though a production model would probably not go
over 18 inches) with 255/45R21 tires, and has a 114-inch
wheelbase.

The FT-SX features a powerful V6 engine, all-wheel drive,
21-inch wheels, four doors, a large, and a multi-function glass
roof. The four-door concept boasts V-6 power, all-wheel drive,
21-inch wheels, and a large glass roof. Toyota claims that the
front-end layout of the FT-SX is “an all-new expression” and
that the look, which it calls “T-Face,” will become the new
design language for the company.

The FT-SX has a trick rear hatch, which allows two panels in the
glass roof to slide toward the center of the vehicle, creating
both a larger opening and a rear sunroof. Pivoting the upper and
lower halves of the hatch up or down, respectively, can make
access to the cargo area. When the lower part of the hatch is
down, a loading tray automatically extends to aid with cargo
loading and unloading. The Toyota FTSX concept is powered by a
3.5-liter V-6 and automatic transmission, with running gear for
on-road performance.

Parts Train is the right place to find top of the line Toyota
auto body parts, replacement parts, performance parts, OEM
parts. Its huge inventory includes suspension, shocks, struts,
AC parts, radiators, belts, hoses, tune-up parts, brakes, air
filters, fuel filters, engine parts, spark plugs, steering,
exhaust, service repair manuals, tail lights, fog lights,
headlights, clutch, fuel pumps, fuel injectors, electrical &
electronic parts, and much more.

Whether you are looking to fix up an old used car or you want
new high performance car parts for your Toyota, you can find all
your auto parts by simply clicking on
http://www.partstrain.com/ShopByVehicle/TOYOTA It is one of the
most trusted online truck parts store. At guaranteed lowest
prices, all products are In Stock and Ready for Immediate
Shipping around the world. Its friendly customer service staffs
are ready to serve and answer your inquiries. They can help you
save on your Toyota parts while ensuring top quality and prompt
delivery at your doorstep.

A tonneau cover is an important tool for people who drive their trucks on a daily basis. It will protect your cargo, and will also help you conserve fuel. A locking tailgate is a device which helps keep the cover closed. In this article I will show you the first steps for installing a cover. In this example we will be using a Ford F-350, but the same basic rule applies to most trucks. Your cover is likely to come with a manual, and you will want to refer to it also.

The first thing you want to do is remove the cover and the accessories from the package. You want to make sure you follow the instructions of the manufacturer when doing this. You may also want to use a soft cloth in order to keep the rolled top from moving back and forth while inside the container. Connect the lock arm onto the bottom of tonneau handle. Once you have installed it the lock should be able to reach over the edge in order to lock the top. You can test the lock by using a key to make sure it works.

Now you want to take the cannister and place it on the rail of the truck. Place it in the area where you want it to be, but make sure you don’t connect it right now. Take off the side channels and other things from the packaging to insure it is the correct length and will fit on the side rails. When you unroll the cover, it will move back inside channels that are attached to the side rails of the truck. This stops the cover from becoming loose due to wind. Take a measurement of your truck bed to make sure the channels will fit.

If the channels are too long, you may need to cut off the parts you don’t need. Once you’ve attached them you want to make sure the tailgate has enough space to close. You will need to mark the spots on the rails where you will be placing the screws. You can add a clamp to the track while you are taking your measurements to make sure they are accurate. A grease pencil can be used to mark the locations. After this you will want to take off the clamps and get ready to drill the holes. Make sure you drill them in the correct location.

After this you will want to attach the track onto the truck bed rail. You will need to use screws for this. These are the basic steps for installing a tonneau cover, and should give you a good idea of what you will need to do.

Michael Colucci is a technical writer for Tonneau Covers - A free site on showing the tips and advantages of tonneau covers.

Carfacts and CHANGING YOUR OIL…

The first thing you should do is go to your local discount auto store or WalMart and purchase your oil and filter.

I would suggest getting a good synthetic or synthetic blend (I have used Castrol Syntec for many years) most good brands have them. Use a synthetic oil for newer vehicles under 40,000 miles and a blend over 40,000 miles. These oils will help with saving your engine and saving fuel. Also purchase a good oil filter, one with a check valve in it to keep oil from running back into oil pan when engine is shut off. This will also help the life of your engine as there will be oil on critical parts when engine is restarted, Fram, AC and Purolator makes good ones.

With this purchase you have the best you can put in your engines oiling system. A typical engine will take 4-5 quarts of oil on a change, so it will cost you around $15.00-$20.00 depending on synthetic or blend oil. This is about the cost of a regular oil change at the Speedy Marts. They would charge $40.00-$50.00 for the synthetics and best filter. So now you have saved $20.00-$30.00 and you have the best you can put in your engine.

Think of your car as one of your children or grand children you want to keep it for a long time so don’t skimp on putting good products in it, it will pay off in the long run with less major breakdowns.

Engine repair or the new cars can run from $1,500.00 to around $7,000.00 depending on what you drive. From a Geo Metro to a big SUV or Diesel Pick-up.

O.K. now you have your oil and filter, time to get to work. Find a solid spot on the front or side of vehicle undercarriage (frame or engine cradle) put jack under vehicle and raise it up high enough to get your jack stands under it then let car down on stands and remove jack. Always,always be safe and use the jack stands whenever you are working under your car.

Your engine should be warm when changing your oil so that most of old oil will drain out.

Find the drain plug in the deep end of the oil pan,it will probably take a 1/2″ or 9/16″ standard closed end wrench, if metric should be a 13mm or 15mm closed end wrench.

Put your wrench on the plug and turn counter clockwise (make sure your drain pan is close) remove plug and let drain into pan. After all the old oil is drained, put the plug back in and tighten (clockwise) make sure this plug is TIGHT.

Then find your oil filter they are in several different places depending on your vehicle and engine, they are located on either one side of the engine or in the front of the engine (belt area). Most filters are now small so get a small or adjustable filter wrench put it on filter (as close to top as possible) it also turns off counter clockwise after it is loose you can take wrench off and spin it off by hand. Have your drain pan under filter area to catch remaining oil. Make sure the old filter rubber seal comes off with filter if not make sure you reach up and pull it off then wipe filter housing clean this makes for a good seal for the new filter. Then fill new filter with some new oil and put some oil around the rubber seal on new filter and spin it clockwise onto filter housing. Make sure it’s TIGHT.

Raise your car again and take out jack stands and let car back down.

Raise hood and find oil fill, most will be in the valve cover of the engine or a tube with a cap that says “OIL” on it,remove the cap and add remaining oil to engine (should be around 4 & 1/2 quarts, you put aprox. 1/2 quart in filter). After all oil is put into the engine replace the oil cap and start engine, let it run for a couple of minutes while looking under vehicle to make sure you got everything tight and have no leaks. If your satisfied nothings leaking shut off engine and locate oil dipstick, pull it out then wipe it off clean and stick back into dipstick tube all the way in, then pull back out and make sure it’s close to the full mark.

If your oil checks o.k. you are almost done. Make sure you keep a log or put a sticker on windshield when next change is due. Then get an old empty milk jug or something like it and use a funnel and put your old oil in it, seal it tight and take it back to where you bought your oil and they will dispose of it for you.

This sounds like a lot of work but total time if you have never done it before should be less than a half hour. After you do it a few times it will take 10-15 minuets, and you will feel good knowing you actually done this yourself and that you saved money doing it.

More car facts tips will be available on an on going basis here on the carfacts article pages. Also the carfacts newsletter will have numerous carfacts tips in every publication, and when my new carfacts book is published you will have a wealth of carfacts tips at your fingertips.

I will be adding additional articles on this and other Automotive subjects, so if you found this interesting and informative go to ==>www.jtcbiz.com and click on the Article button bottom left to read more CarFacts and information.

Jack Cooper
Occupation: Auto Appraiser/Inspector
Website: http://www.jtcbiz.com

Biography: I have over 40 years experience in the Automotive field, from ASE Master Tech to owner of my own repair shop and have been doing Automotive Appraisals and extended warranty/pre-purchase inspections for the past 12 years.

I have been working on building and just about anything connected with cars all my life. I have been a Drag Racer (early years) drove stock cars (asphalt and dirt) built Hot Rods and restored classic cars, so have been around just about any type of vehicle you can imagine.

My hobby is NASCAR and building web-sites. My current web-site http://www.jtcbiz.com is a site I started several years ago as an information site for Cars and expanded into trucks, 4X4’s, ATV’s, Motorcycles and NASCAR. The site started out to be a business site, hence the jtcbiz name, but turned into a site on vehicles so don’t be alarmed with site name as it had a lot of exposure so I left the name.

With gas prices seemingly out of control it’s more important than ever to learn how to improve gas mileage in your vehicles.

There are many simple steps you can take that are free or low cost that at first glance seem silly or even obvious but you would be surprised how many people fail to do them or ignore the warning signs their car is giving them.

Here are some quick tips that you may have missed or forgotten about. Not any single tip will make that big of a difference in increasing your gas mileage but I am a firm believer that every little thing you can do really does add up to getting better gas mileage and helping the environment in the process.

Simple Mileage Improvement Tips:

Use a sunshade to keep your car cool and avoid the use of your air conditioner as much as possible.

Park your car in the shade when it’s sunny and warm to keep your car’s interior cooler.

Make sure that your parking brake is fully released before you start driving.

Avoid drive-thru lines at restaurants. Park your car and go inside and order your food as many times it’s a lot quicker anyway. I always laugh to myself as I’m eating while I watch people sitting in their cars still waiting for their food. Just think of how much gas is wasted in those lines!

Use a block heater in winter to pre-warm your car engine.

Don’t ride the brake. Not only will this save gas but will greatly extend the life of your brake pads.

Drive with a smooth, constant speed and avoid “flooring it” when the stoplight turns green.

Maintain the transmission fluid in your car at the proper level for efficient gear shifting.

If there is smoke is coming from your tailpipe make sure that you make an appointment with your mechanic.

Make sure that your cooling system thermostat in your car is working properly.

Avoid air conditioning leaks by constant checkups with your mechanic. FYI - Pre-1994 vehicles use CFCs for cooling.

Immediately fix a slipping transmission.

When you rev up your vehicle’s engine it wastes gas. Avoid revving your engine before your turn it off as it really serves no purpose.

If you can’t find a place to buy cheap gas on one day wait if you can until a few days later since the price of gas is constantly changing. Where I live you can almost predict which days prices will rise or fall. Start watching prices in your area to see if you can pick up on any patterns.

Buy your gas at the wholesale clubs, like Costco. You can often save over 10 cents a gallon or more. If you don’t like the wholesale clubs get a gas credit card from a major oil company. You’ll get a 1% to 5% discount when you buy your gas at their stations.

For more great gas saving tips and tricks please visit us at: http://www.gas-mileage-experts.com. We specialize in information about different types of fuel savers for cars that are sure to save you money!