Herbal Medicine Chest in Your Backyard

May 28th, 2008 by Administrator

What could be easier than growing an herb garden with no effort? Of course, you’ll have to harvest your weeds, but you would do that anyhow: it’s called weeding.

Spring is an especially fertile time for harvesting your weeds - roots and all - and turning them into medicines. Here then are some tips on how to find, harvest, prepare, and use a baker’s dozen (13) of common weeds that probably already grow around you.

To make your medicines you’ll need glass jars of various sizes with tight-fitting lids. And at least a pint each of apple cider vinegar (pasteurized), vodka (100 proof is best, but 80 proof will do), and pure olive oil (not extra virgin) or good quality animal fat such as lanolin, lard, or belly fat from a lamb or kid. You will also want a knife, a cutting board, and some rags to mop up spills.

In general, you will fill a jar (of any size) with coarsely-chopped fresh, but dry, plant material. (Do not wash any part of the plant except roots, if you are using them, and be sure to dry those well with a towel before putting them in your jar.) Then you will fill the jar with your menstruum, that is the vinegar, the oil, or the alcohol. Label well and allow to stand at room temperature, out of the sunlight for at least six weeks before decanting and using. (See my book Healing Wise for more specific information on making preparations.)

A field guide is helpful for positively identifying your weeds. The one I like best is: A Guide to the Identification of New Zealand Common Weeds in Colour, complied by E. A. Upritchard. (Available from the New Zealand Weed And Pest Control Society, P.O. Box 1654, Palmerston North) This book even shows you how the weeds look when they are emerging.

Ready? OK! Let’s go outside and see what we can find.

Shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa pastoris) is an annual in the mustard family. Cut the top half of the plant when it has formed its little heart-shaped “purses” (seed pods) and make a tincture (with alcohol), which you can use to stop bleeding. Midwives and women who bleed heavily during their period praise its prompt effectiveness. Gypsies claim it works on the stomach and lungs as well. A dose is 1 dropperful (1ml); which may be repeated up to four times a day.

Cleavers (Gallium aparine) is a persistent, sticky plant which grows profusely in abandoned lots and the edges of cultivated land. The entire plant is used to strengthen lymphatic activity. I cut the top two-thirds of each plant while it is in flower (or setting seeds) and use alcohol to make a tincture which relieves tender, swollen breasts, PMS symptoms, and allergic reactions. A dose is 15-25 drops (.5 - 1 ml); repeated as needed.

Chickweed (Stellaria media) has many uses, including delicious salad greens. I cut the entire top of the plant and eat it or use alcohol to make a tincture, which dissolves cysts, tonifies the thyroid, and aids in weight loss. A dose is a dropperful (1 ml), up to three times a day.

Daisy (Bellis perennis) is a common perennial weed of lawns and open areas. Quite different from the native daisy (Lagenifera petiolata), the little English daisy is related to feverfew and has similar abilities. I use the leaves and flowers to make a tincture (with alcohol) or a medicinal vinegar which relieves headaches, muscle pain, and allergy symptoms. A dose is a dropperful of the tincture (1 ml), up to twice a day; or a tablespoon of the vinegar in the morning.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinalis) is a persistent perennial of lawns and gardens and one of the best known medicinal herbs in the world. (The native dandelion of New Zealand - Taraxacum magellanicum - is medicinal too.) Those who love a pure green lawn curse the sunny yellow flowers of common dandelion. But those who are willing to see beauty anywhere (such as children and herbalists) treasure this weed. You can use any part of the dandelion - the root, the leaves, the flowers, even the flower stalk - to make a tincture or medicinal vinegar which strengthens the liver. A dose of 10-20 drops of the tincture (.5-1 ml) relieves gas, heartburn, and indigestion, as well as promoting healthy bowel movements. A tablespoon of the vinegar works well, too. More importantly, taken before meals, dandelion increases the production of hydrochloric acid in the stomach, thus increasing bio-availability of many nutrients, especially calcium. The fresh or cooked green leaves are loaded with carotenes, those anti-cancer, anti-heart disease helpers. And the oil of the flowers is an important massage balm for maintaining healthy breasts. (There’s lots more information on dandelions in Healing Wise.)

Dock, also called yellow dock, curly dock, and broad dock is a perennial plant, which my Native American grandmothers use for “all women’s problems.” The Maori call it paewhenua or runa. It is another plant that disagrees with sheep, especially when the land is overgrazed. I dig the yellow roots of Rumex crispus or R. obtusifolius and tincture them in alcohol to use as an ally when the immune system or the liver needs help. A dose is 15-25 drops (.5-1 ml). I also harvest the leaves and/or seeds throughout the growing season and make a medicinal vinegar, taken a tablespoon at a time, which is used to increase blood-levels of iron, reduce menstrual flooding and cramping, and balance hormone levels. If the chopped roots are soaked in oil for six weeks, the resulting ointment is beneficial for keeping the breasts healthy.

Groundsel (Senecio vulgaris) and Ragwort (Senecio jacobea) are hardy perennials that have a reputation for poisoning livestock, like their cousin tansy. Although not good for sheep, these two Senecios are some of the world’s most ancient healing plants, having been found in a grave 60,000 years old. You can use the flowering tops and leaves with your alcohol to make a tincture which acts slowly to tonify the reproductive organs, ease PMS, and stop severe menstrual pain. A dose is 5-10 drops (.2-.5 ml) per day, used only once a day, but for at least 3 months. (A larger dose is used to speed up labor.)

Mallows (Malva neglecta, M. parviflora, M. sylvestres) grow well in neglected gardens and are surprisingly deep-rooted. The flowers, leaves, stalks, seeds, and roots are rich in sticky mucilage which is best extracted by soaking the fresh plant in cold water overnight or longer or by making a medicinal vinegar. The starch is extraordinarily soothing internally (easing sore throats, upset tummies, heart burn, irritable bowel, colic, constipation, and food poisoning) and externally (relieving bug bites, burns, sprains, and sore eyes). The leaves, flowers, and bark (especially) of the native Hohere (Hoheria populnea) are used in exactly the same way by Maori herbalists.

Plantain, also called ribwort, pig’s ear, and the bandaid plant is a common weed of lawns, driveways, parks, and playgrounds. Identify it by the five parallel veins running the length of each leaf. You may find broad leaf plantain (Plantago major) with wide leaves, or narrow leaf plantain (Plantago lanceolata) with lance-thin leaves. Either can be used to make a healing poultice or a soothing oil widely regarded as one of the best wound healers around. Not only does plantain increase the speed of healing, it also relieves pain, stops bleeding, draws out foreign matter, stops itching, prevents and stops allergic reactions from bee stings, kills bacteria, and reduces swelling.

Try a poultice or a generous application of plantain oil or ointment (made by thickening the oil with beeswax) on sprains, cuts, insect bites, rashes, chafed skin, boils, bruises, chapped and cracked lips, rough or sore hands, baby’s diaper area, and burns.

To make a fresh plantain poultice: Pick a leaf, chew it well and put it on the boo-boo. “Like magic” the pain, itching, and swelling disappear, fast! (Yes, you can dry plantain leaves and carry them in your first aid kit. Chew like you would fresh leaves.)

To make plantain ointment: Pick large fresh plantain leaves. Chop coarsely. Fill a clean, dry, glass jar with the chopped leaves. Pour pure olive oil into the leaves, poking about with a chopstick until the jar is completely full of oil and all air bubbles are released. Cap well. Place jar in a small bowl to collect any overflow. Wait six weeks. Then strain oil out of the plant material, squeezing well. Measure the oil. Heat it gently, adding one tablespoon of grated beeswax for every liquid ounce of oil. Pour into jars and allow to cool.

St. Joan’s/John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) This beautiful perennial wildflower may be hated by sheep farmers but herbalists adore it. The flowering tops are harvested after they begin to bloom (traditionally on Solstice, June 21) and prepared with alcohol, and with oil, to make two of the most useful remedies in my first aid kit. Tincture of St. Joan’s wort not only lends one a sunny disposition, it reliably relieves muscle aches, is a powerful anti-viral, and is my first-choice treatment for those with shingles, sciatica, backpain, neuralgia, and headaches including migraines. The usual dose is 1 dropperful (1 ml) as frequently as needed. In extreme pain from a muscle spasm in my thigh, I used a dropperful every twenty minutes for two hours, or until the pain totally subsided. St. Joan’s wort oil stops cold sores in their tracks and can even relieve genital herpes symptoms. I use it as a sunscreen. Contrary to popular belief, St. Joan’s wort does not cause sun sensitivity; it prevents it. It even prevents burns from radiation therapy. Eases sore muscles, too.

Self heal (Prunella vulgaris) This scentless perennial mint is one of the great unsung healers of the world. The leaves and flowers contain more antioxidants - which prevent cancer and heart disease, among other healthy traits - than any other plant tested. And as part of the mint family, self heal is imbued with lots of minerals, especially calcium, making it an especially important ally for pregnant, nursing, menopausal, and post-menopausal women. I put self heal leaves in salads in the spring and fall, make a medicinal vinegar with the flowers during the summer, and cook the flowering tops (fresh or dried) in winter soups.

Usnea (Usnea barbata) is that many-stranded grey lichen hanging out of the branches of your apple trees or the Monterey pines planted in the plantation over there or in almost any native tree in areas of the South Island Alps, where it is known as angiangi to the Maori. If in doubt of your identification: Pull a strand gently apart with your hands, looking for a white fiber inside the fuzzy grey-green outer coat. To prepare usnea, harvest at any time of the year, being careful not to take too much. Usnea grows slowly. Put your harvest in a cooking pan and just cover it with cold water. Boil for about 15-25 minutes, or until the water is orange and reduced by at least half. Pour usnea and water into a jar, filling it to the top with plant material. (Water should be no more than half of the jar.) Add the highest proof alcohol you can buy. After 6 weeks this tincture is ready to work for you as a superb antibacterial, countering infection anywhere in the body. A dose is a dropperful (1 ml) as frequently as every two hours in acute situations.

Yarrow (Achellia millefolium) This lovely perennial weed is grown in many herb gardens for it has a multitude of uses. Cut the flowering tops (use only white-flowering yarrow) and use your alcohol to make a strongly-scented tincture that you can take internally to prevent colds and the flu. (A dose is 10-20 drops, or up to 1 ml). I carry a little spray bottle of yarrow tincture with me when I’m outside and wet my skin every hour or so. A United States Army study showed yarrow tincture to be more effective than DEET at repelling ticks, mosquitoes, and sand flies. You can also make a healing ointment with yarrow flower tops and your oil or fat. Yarrow oil is antibacterial, pain-relieving, and incredibly helpful in healing all types of wounds.

For more information on making preparations and on the uses of specific herbs, consult Susun’s books: Healing Wise, Wise Woman Herbal for the Childbearing Year, Menopausal Years the Wise Woman Way, and Breast Cancer? Breast Health! The Wise Woman Way.

Susun Weed - EzineArticles Expert Author

Susun Weed
PO Box 64
Woodstock, NY 12498
Fax: 1-845-246-8081

Vibrant, passionate, and involved, Susun Weed has garnered an international reputation for her groundbreaking lectures, teachings, and writings on health and nutrition. She challenges conventional medical approaches with humor, insight, and her vast encyclopedic knowledge of herbal medicine. Unabashedly pro-woman, her animated and enthusiastic lectures are engaging and often profoundly provocative.

Susun is one of America’s best-known authorities on herbal medicine and natural approaches to women’s health. Her four best-selling books are recommended by expert herbalists and well-known physicians and are used and cherished by millions of women around the world. Learn more at http://www.susunweed.com

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Getting Started with Garden and Patio Design

May 24th, 2008 by Administrator

The art of managing outdoor space
Designing a patio - or a garden, is much like designing a living room or a park. It’s all about space, and how you use it. To start with, you have empty space with nothing in it. Then you add plants, statues and other decorative items to fill that space and make it feel like a homey, comfortable space.. but wait! You don’t want to actually fill it with stuff. Then it would look cluttered, which is not what you want. What you want is a balance between empty space and decorative items. The real issue, then, is how do you achieve that balance?

Use Clustering to make the most of your outdoor space
The first mistake most people make when decorating a patio, backyard or garden is to take their planters, fountains, statues, etc. and spread them out evenly to try to cover as much space as possible. This is especially tempting for those on a tight budget, since they may not be able to afford as many accessories and accents as they would like. Spreading things out evenly, though, creates a boring space which doesn’t give the eye anything in particular to focus on. It is much more pleasing to group your plants and decor items into clusters, so that several items can be seen at once, in a friendly grouping, with empty space between providing variety. This way, your visitors’ eyes can move easily and comfortably from one cluster to another - each cluster is distinct in character and the empty space between emphasizes their unique natures.

Try to think of each plant, statue, plaque or other accent as having its own personality, and place them together in groups that allow them to relate to each other in pleasing and complementary ways; place two low flowering plants on either side of a larger fern, or place a small statue between a palm and a vine - the possibilities are endless and are only limited by your creativity and imagination!

Take your visitors on a journey
Think about what a visitor will see as they enter and move through your patio, garden or backyard. What will catch their eye first? Once they’ve enjoyed looking at that, what will they look at next? Where will their attention be drawn, and where will that carry their feet? Professional designers set up their spaces much like a story; the intent is to guide their visitors’ attentions - and their bodies - through the space so that everything is seen and everything is enjoyed in an interesting and pleasing order.

Try to create special accent zones to show off your most treasured items by placing them right in the visitor’s path, or by placing them at eye level, or by surrounding them with unique accessories that set the entire cluster apart from the others. If you take a little time to consider what people will see and where they will go as they make their way through your garden space, you’ll find that creating a relaxing and pleasant garden or backyard is just a matter of common sense!

Don’t neglect the vertical space
It’s easy to think about your outdoor areas in terms of their ground or floor space - the area where you can place a plant stand, set a statue or fountain, or leave a path for friends to walk - but you must also remember the space above the ground! In some ways, vertical space is even more important than ground space!

Walls or fences can be beautified with the simple addition of a garden plaque, a wall fountain or a planter on a shelf. If you want a more functional wall item, try a garden thermometer. Training a vine or some ivy up a trellis is a great way to use some vertical space and create a sense of intimacy and privacy as well.

Then, of course, there are the hanging items.. hanging plants are a great way of lifting the eye up to a new vantage point and adding a vertical element to your green space. Windchimes are a special prize, because they are not only a delight to the eye, but a treasure for the ears as well. Suncatchers also add a unique beauty with their ability to catch the sunlight and turn it into yet another decorative accent. When placing hanging decor, think ‘outside of the box’… hanging items can be part of the clusters you create with your plants and statuary or they can hang by themselves, defining turning points along the garden path or providing embellishment to the open space between clusters.

There are so many ways to use vertical decor I can only mention a few of them here: Hang them from eaves and overhangs to adorn borders, suspend them from awnings and overhead beams for a more enclosed and intimate effect, and if you have a tree or two in your garden how about hanging a plant from a branch or placing a planter in the crook of a bough? Now you’re using clustering and vertical space at the same time by using a plant to hold a plant!

Winged visitors - your mobile decorations!
Birds are beautiful to look at and lovely to listen to, but most important to your garden or patio design, they move around on their own! Attract birds to your outdoor space and you’ll have a constant variety of design as they flit from branch to branch or light and preen on a fountain or statue. Birds are nature’s own decor and attracting them to your garden or backyard is easy.. just give them something to eat, a place to bathe and somewhere to build a nest! Birdbaths and bird feeders are excellent as statue items and ensure a steady supply of feathered friends as well. Bird houses are especially nice because they can be used for vertical space decoration as well as providing a comfortable place for sparrows and starlings to nest or just to hang out for awhile! What’s a garden or patio without the beauty and song of birds?

Dare to dream
These three tips are just the beginning of the process. They’re intended to get you started thinking like a professional designer and considering the unlimited possibilities that your unused outdoor spaces present. Don’t let your space lie dormant.. bring it to life with your own creativity, your own flair and with affordable garden decor and accessories from Springtime Gardens!!

Brian Dalton owns and maintains the Springtime Gardens website, and spends countless happy hours decorating and maintaining his own patios and container gardens.

Springtime Gardens - Affordable Garden and Patio Decor

Copyright 2005 BKD Enterprises

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“Forget Everything You’ve Ever Read About Water Heating…”

May 12th, 2008 by Administrator

In recent times electric tankless hot water heaters are
progressively making a name for themselves in the United
States as optimum water heater cost savers.

In addition in many areas outside of the United States,
electric tankless water heaters are considered to be far
superior to the standard and more traditional hot water
heaters with tanks that take up entire closets and indeed
soak up lots of dollars each month.

The tank units are seen as antiquated and entirely
inefficient in both water heating mechanism and costs. Yet
people stick with because they are tried and true.

In many ways, this belief is true. Hot water heater tanks
never quite stop working and are generally fairly reliable.
But there is one over riding issue with the traditional
water heaters which is that even if nothing in the house is
using the heater, the heater is still wasting energy and
therefore still costing money.

But despite what they have used in the past and despite
what they have paid for water heating in the paste, people
can actually change their heating and hot water rates if
they install a tankless water heater.

Tankless water heaters are simply more efficient systems
than tank units because they don’t soak up the energy when
the tank is not in use.

There are a large number of electric tankless water heaters
available on the market. Having such a wide choice makes
it much easier for people to find a unit that falls into
their price range and fits into the available space they
have in their home.

Even the cheapest electric tankless water heaters can still
be very effective for residential use. There are also more
powerful electric tankless water heaters that are designed
for use in large homes.

People can find electric tankless water heaters that supply
an entire home, or they can locate electric tankless water
heaters that only serves only one point in the house.

Many retailers offer cheap delivery on their units
especially if you purchase the unit from them and ask them
to undertake the installation of the unit as well.

While most electric tankless hot water heaters are designed
to allow the consumer to install them there are often more
technical considerations such as voltage, amperage, or
circuit breakers, and so it can often be a good idea to
bring an expert in.

===========================================================
Discover important, energy-saving information. Find out
how to more effectively heat your home using tankless water
heaters. Click
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About the Author

John Williams works tech support for New York based
Internet Publishing company, DigiLectual Inc. He’s keenly
interested in energy efficiency, and did a lot of research
before installing tankless water heaters in his own home.

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How to Prune Apple Trees

May 10th, 2008 by Administrator

In this article you will find out how to prune apple trees. (One
of several articles from the author on how to prune fruit trees).
Pruning apple trees can be done several ways. This operation
often causes concern, and considerable variation in ideas exists
on the subject, generally. Concerning bush trees in the small
garden, the following points should be borne in mind. First, one
may ask, “what happens if no pruning is done at all”?

The answer is that too much growth may be made, the branches will
be too congested and, although fruit will be borne, it may be
smaller than it should be. Then, the stage may be reached when
growth will slow down, and too many fruit buds will be formed in
relation to the new growth. In short, one has to aim at a balance
between wood (shoot) growth and fruit bud formation.

If very hard pruning is done after the early years more wood
growth than is needed may be produced and fruiting will be
delayed. One method of how to prune apple trees to avoid, is the
cutting off of all the new growth at the same level each year,
i.e. beheading a tree at a given height. This only encourages
more wood growth, and gives the tree little chance to make fruit
spurs and fruit buds.

How to prune apple trees - Pruning of a young tree

To start with the pruning of a young tree, after planting, this
may have 3 or 4 main branches. The 1-year-old wood (the newest
growth) should be cut back half way, to an outward-facing bud.
Strong shoots may be cut back less hard, and weaker branches
rather harder. Next autumn, or winter, the new growth that arises
from this cutting back is treated similarly. Keep only the best
two or three shoots that arise from the original branches
(leaders) and cut out any shoots that cross the centre of the
bush, the aim being to encourage an outward framework of
branches, i.e. cup shaped.

The main shoots should be treated similarly for the following
years. Meanwhile, the main branches will be furnished with side
shoots (laterals) and all these that grow out from the tree
(outward that is) can be left their full length. Those growing
inwards should be cut back each winter to two buds from the base.

In connection with how to prune apple trees, in the early years,
the question of whether fruit formed in the first season after
planting should be left or removed, is often raised. If the tree
is making good growth. I suggest that a few fruits be retained.
To leave many may cause a check in growth.

How to prune apple trees - Regulated System

A logical stage forward from no pruning is the method known as
the Regulated System. This can be followed with standard trees,
half standards and strong-growing bush trees, i.e. those on
vigorous root stocks. Briefly, with established trees this
entails only the removal of crowded or crossing branches,
thinning out unwanted shoots, and taking out any dead wood. With
this method on how to prune apple trees, sizeable branches have
sometimes to be removed, and a pruning saw, with a curved blade
is best used for this purpose. The cut surfaces of sawn off
branches should be painted over with white lead paint to prevent
entry of disease spores.

How to prune apple trees - Spur Pruning

For established bush trees on the less-vigorous root stocks, the
harder method of pruning, called Spur Pruning, is sometimes
followed. This, however, is best modified to give a method called
the Established Spur System. This is designed to encourage a
system of fruiting spurs, close to the main branch-work, and is
useful for weaker growing varieties in particular. New lateral
growth from the branch frame work is pruned back to two or three
buds from the branch. New growth will arise from these buds,
which will in turn be pruned similarly the following year.

A spur system of fruit buds will be formed at the base of these
shoots which will bear the fruit. These spur systems will need to
be thinned out, as they begin to crowd the tree, in order to
encourage new growth and reduce the amount of blossom. Some
laterals growing towards the outside of the tree may be left to
extend naturally; these will form fruit buds and bear the
earliest fruit while the spur system is being formed.

Some varieties bear fruit on the ends of the shoots, tip bearers,
as they are called, and it is essential to make provision for a
certain amount of unpruned wood. These unpruned laterals may be
cut back to fruit buds or spurs, when their length demands. In
short this method on how to prune apple trees aims at a
compromise between hard spur pruning and leaving some laterals
unpruned.

How to prune apple trees - Renewal System

From spur pruning, a further method has been evolved, called the
Renewal System. This method which may at first appear complicated
to the amateur is, in fact, a successful way of controlling wood
and fruit formation to the best advantage. It consists of
shortening a proportion of the annual growth in order to produce
more wood, leaving some unpruned to form fruit buds. These should
be well spaced out over the branch length, to ensure that fruit
will not be crowded. The number of laterals, or new growths, to
be shortened, depends on the variety and growth of the apple
trees.

A strongly growing tree can carry more fruit, therefore perhaps
half of the laterals could be shortened and half left untouched.
On a weaker tree, which tends to form fruit buds at the expense
of new growth, 2 in 3 of the laterals may be pruned. In this
system the individual characteristics of the tree need to be
catered for; there is no hard and fast rule. Laterals which are
pruned to 2 or 3 ins. in length, will form new wood, which is
treated as before, either to be left, or shortened in due course.

How to prune apple trees - Cordon Trees

Basically, these are Spur Pruned; that is, all the young growth,
each year, is shortened back to within 2 or 3 buds of the base,
where fruit buds will form and a spur system is built up. Space,
or lack of it, often dictates that this hard cutting back has to
be done, to keep the trees within limits.

A modified system is to leave some of the longer laterals full
length and curl them round in a circle, tying them firmly with
fillis string to make a loop. These loops will form fruit buds
along their length in subsequent years, and may be left intact so
long as there is room for them. As others are retained, the
oldest may be cut out. Espalier trees may be treated in the same
way as Cordons.

How to prune apple trees - Biennial

Bearing Some varieties of apples tend to produce a heavy crop one
year and a light one the next. If one has several trees, this
tends to balance out, as all the trees may not have the same “on
or off” tendency. If one has only 1 or 2 trees however, biennial
bearing could cause a total loss of crop one season, and the
trees would be likely to produce a heavier crop than usual the
next year, and a lighter than average the following season.

Where this is happening, before the expected cropping year,
pruning of new wood should be very light, and spur systems should
be reduced. A proportion, say one third, of the blossom should be
removed at flowering time. In other words aim at reducing the
over-heavy crops. Finally, when you have learnt how to prune
apple trees, all pruning should be done when the trees are
dormant, i.e. in autumn or winter.

About the Author

Paul Curran is CEO of Cuzcom Internet Publishing Group and
webmaster at Trees-and-Bushes.com, providing access to their
nursery supplier for a range of quality plants, trees, bushes,
shrubs, seeds and garden products.Visit
their fruit trees section to find a great selection of apple
trees for your garden

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Canvas Gazebos and Gazebo Kits

April 21st, 2008 by Administrator

Are you looking for a way to create a screened in patio in your back yard, but don’t
want to deal with a lot of heavy wood and maintenance that wooden gazebos need?
The perfect solution is a canvas gazebo. With a canvas gazebo, you cannot only
easily construct your back yard getaway quickly, but it doesn’t take a lot of parts to
get your area built.

Most models of a canvas gazebo are very similar, with a rather lightweight
aluminum frame similar to a camping tent, and with flexible screen material that
forms windows and doors. Choose to unzip the screened in windows during the day
to let more sun in, or zip them up at night to keep mosquitoes and other bugs out.

If you have a concrete slab or patio pavers area, this is an ideal place to put a canvas
gazebo. Otherwise, you might consider purchasing some sort of Astroturf to put on
the ground where you plan to place your gazebos, to keep a lot of mud from being
tracked in to it. When the windy months come, simply break down your cover and
store it until the spring arrives!

If you are looking for a more permanent solution, there is no better way to add
charm to your back yard than installing a gazebo kit. With so many styles and sizes
of gazebos to choose from, you can find the perfect match to the style and look of
your home and yard. Perhaps you are looking for an oriental curved rafter model, or
traditional, rustic looking gazebos. There are great gazebo plans that you can
purchase if you decide to build your own backyard outdoor shelter.

It is amazing how much something as simple as an arbor, trellis, or gazebos can
alter the look and atmosphere of your garden. Most of the gazebos that you will find
for sale online are hand crafted and may come unassembled for easy assembly at
home. If you are looking to create your own unique style, perhaps a gazebo kit is
perfect for you. You can save money and build your own gazebo with cedar or other
specialty woods. Most gazebo plans are fairly easy to follow if you have a bit of the
do-it-yourself spirit and talent.

The great thing about gazebos is that you can place them almost anywhere in your
yard or garden. Put a quaint bench nearby, or plant creeping vines on your backyard
arbor. You can also use gazebo plans to build a spa gazebo or even a screened in
patio model. Remember to find out what kind of materials or wood are used to
build the models that you are interested in, and what sort of additional accessories
or care products you will need to keep your cabanas, playhouses, and palapas
looking great!

For more information on teak furniture and complete patio resources, visit our site
at www.best-patio-furniture-online.com.

J.J. Nielson is a successful graphic artist and published internet author.

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Taking Inside Comfort Outside: A Look at Outdoor Patio Heaters for the Home

April 18th, 2008 by Administrator

One of the biggest trends among homeowners today is building or improving outdoor rooms around the house, such as patios and decks. According to a recent survey conducted by the Propane Education and Research Council (PERC), 50 percent of homeowners in the U.S. spend more time at home now than they did five years ago. Further, 80 percent of those surveyed thought that it was very important for a home to have a relaxing outdoor room. One of the top items PERC recommends for creating the perfect outdoor room is a patio heater.

A study conducted by the Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association (HPBA) shows that 56 percent of all grill owners, and 69 percent of gas grill owners, now grill out on a regular basis year round. By using an outdoor patio heater, or perhaps an alternative such as a chiminea, many of those people could continue to enjoy the entire outdoors experience by also eating outside during cold weather.

The Safety of Patio Heaters

Safety is of the utmost importance when it comes to home appliances. Patio heaters these days are very safe, and getting better all the time. Many gas heaters come with a piezo electric starter, so there is no need for matches and no pilot light. Another common safety feature is an automatic emergency shut off. If a unit with this feature is ever overturned or even hit too hard, it will instantly shut itself off.

Fuel Types

Patio heaters are manufactured to run off one of three different fuel types: propane, natural gas, or electricity. Natural gas is used for permanent, stationary heaters. Propane, conveniently available in tanks, allows a heater to be moved about. Infrared heaters are often powered by electricity, though some are run by natural gas.

Choosing Between Various Options

New types and sizes of patios heaters become available regularly. As you look through the various options below, consider your specific needs. Do you want a stationary heater, or a portable one? How much heat do you need considering the people you will entertain? Asking yourself these kinds of questions will guide you to the heater best suited to your outdoor room.

Free-standing, table-top, or wall-mounted?

Free-standing heaters are larger (about 95 inches tall) and more powerful than table-top heaters. Table-top heaters, though, because they are lighter and smaller, are also much easier to carry around, wherever you want to go. A good example of a table-top heater is the Lil Arctic Sun Original, which can radiate heat in an 8 foot diameter.

For larger groups, you might want to try the free-standing Arctic Sun Bullet, an affordable commercial grade heater that radiates heat in up to a 20 foot diameter. Infrared heaters are often quite versatile; they can be be hung on a wall, on a pole, or even possibly overhead.

Portable or stationary?

Stationary heaters are advantageous because they hook up to your natural gas lines, and so do not have tanks that need to be replaced or refilled. If you plan on moving the heater to different locations, though, you will need a portable propane model. Portable heaters can be either free-standing or table-top models. Many of the free-standing units come with hidden wheels to make movement easier.

One of the newest and most unique types of portable heaters now available is the Dayva Tiki Torch. It is small heater with a long spike that can stick in the ground or the umbrella hole of a table. This heater is perfect for camping or a late-night trip to the beach.

How much heat?

The strength of a patio heater is rated in BTU’s. As an example, a 45,000 BTU heater will produce a 20 foot heat diameter. Free-standing heaters are generally more powerful than table-top heaters, and so can be used for larger groups.

In conclusion . . .

Patio heaters are a welcome and useful addition to America’s increasingly outdoor lifestyle. They safely and efficiently turn chilly nights into warm, comfortable evenings, perfect for you and your family to get together and relax. After all, relaxing is one thing we just do not do enough these days.

Trey Collier is owner of BackyardCity.com - Where North America shops for Outdoor Living essentials, including high quality outdoor patio heaters and outdoor fireplaces.

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Attracting Birds To Your Garden

April 8th, 2008 by Administrator

Firstly, birds will be attracted by the geographic location of your garden.

To find out which birds are in the geographic area of your garden at the moment, you will have to consult specialty magazines and documentations. Maybe even the weather guy can provide some information regarding this aspect although this is not always true. Libraries and book stores have books based on migration, on the roads that some bird species take to get to their summer or winter residence. Also, taking pictures of birds you see around you and then reading informative materials that you already have, or searching for information related to them can be an option to find out if these bird are going to make a stop in the area that you live in.

Birds need water. This is highly important. A bath or a pool, no matter the size or the material, would instantly attract many bird families, even wild ducks and gooses to the vicinity.

If you could also arrange a place where they could find some food, bird seeds, bread or anything else they might like, that would increase the chances they might appear somewhere in your garden. You can try, for instance with corn. Seeds of any type also hold an answer to the question related to attracting birds towards your garden. The seeds that almost all birds prefer are sun-flower seeds, extremely easy to find, and cheap to buy also. Before buying the seeds, you should make a list of all the birds that you have spotted in the area and research every bird’s food preferences to assure you can provide food for many types of birds present.

These are the first steps that you have to make to attract birds in your garden. The second step is keeping away all the things that might scare or disturb birds in or around your garden. Animals from the next garden and neighbor’s dogs can scare the birds. Maybe ask the neighbors to keep the dogs chained or in the house, because persistent dog barking may not allow the birds to settle in your garden.

Also, you must know that some birds do not agree with each other, so that a certain species might avoid your garden because there is another species in it. Some can also stay away because of the fact you have children and the noise is too loud, and others can stay away because the place doesn’t look natural enough. So, knowing their nature and customs can be a decisive factor in bringing particular birds to your backyard.

To discover some great gardening tips visit http://www.gardeningtoolsandtips.info for information such as container gardening.

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The Garden Statue - -Stone, Metal, Or Gnome?

March 12th, 2008 by Administrator

Enhance Your Yard Or Flower Bed

There are several types of garden statue available that will enhance your yard or flower bed with a tastefully decorative touch. You can choose from several different sizes, shapes, materials for your statue depending on your taste and your budget. You may want the statue to be a focal point on which all the other landscaping depends, or you may just want something to give that finishing touch to its small corner. There are statues on bases, statues that hang, and statues that are simply set on the ground. When you are putting in a garden statue you will need to consider the size, the location, the material, the design and where you will buy it.

Resin Statue

A resin statue is very popular because it is virtually indestructible and can be created to look like almost any other material. It is really hard plastic that can be molded into nearly any shape and painted to look like metal, stone, or wood. It is also a lightweight garden statue and can be cleaned simply by cleaning with soap and water.

Concrete Or Cement Statue

Another fairly inexpensive type of statue is the concrete or cement statue. These statues can be left “as-is” or painted. They can be molded into any shape, but they will not have the fine detail of some of the other garden statue materials so they are often fairly large. They are relatively inexpensive when compared to the real stone statues. They are heavy and withstand the elements fairly well, but if they are hit or knocked over they can be broken.

Fiberglass Statue

A fiberglass statue is much like a resin garden statue. Fiberglass is another form of lightweight plastic and can be easily cleaned, but they are often smoother than the resin statues and shinier as well. You can also clean it easily with soap and water.

Metallic Statue

For a more unusual look you might want to get a metallic garden statue. They come in copper, brass, iron, bronze and other metals. Some are meant to retain their sheen over time while others begin to oxidize and get a patina of green, turquoise, or rust coloring.

Stone Statue

When you think of stone statues you may envision the Roman or Greek masterpieces, but you will find that you can find some that may be perfect for your yard as well. Simulated stone is an alternative for your garden statue that allows the artist to get more detail without as much room for error. The simulated stone is just as strong and durable as real stone. Marble is a real stone that has been used for centuries to make statues in palaces and the finer homes. Marble comes in several colors and is beautiful and elegant and will add a touch of class to any garden statue.

Style Your Garden

If you want a new look for your garden, there are statues that have a beautiful glass ball incorporated into some part of the garden statue, either hanging from a chain or a hook or resting in a base. Some of the glass balls are just clear, but others have an iridescent quality. They reflect the sunlight and are really very charming.

As far as style, you can choose the whimsical-like fairies or gnomes, or the more classic styles that look like something from Rodin or Michelangelo’s studio. There are modernistic forms filled with geometric shapes and straight lines. There are statues of children, animals, and almost anything you can think of. There is even a statue that fits right into the trunk of a tree that has an old gnome-like face, giving your tree a personality of its own.

Margarette Tustle writes ideas for home and family. Find statue resources for animal statues at dreamstatue.com

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Gardening Without Pests

March 2nd, 2008 by Administrator

Deer and raccoons, rabbits and gophers, moles and chipmunks! They capture your heart when in a book or zoo, but when they invade your garden. Oh! That’s a different story. Yet how can a rabbit resist munching on your crisp lettuce? Or a possum or raccoon stay away from your sweet corn patch? And your berries will always be attractive to a squirrel.

Fending off the various animals that want to enjoy both your flower and vegetable gardens can be both time consuming and frustrating. Learning how to chase them off without poisoning both them and your vegetables remains a crucial part of being a good gardener. As scientists begin to realize the damaging effects of pesticides and other poisons on the human body, the use of toxic methods needs to be carefully considered, and then rejected.

Birds are a bird-watchers delight and somewhere between a mild and major nuisance to the gardeners. They actually do less harm than the four-legged animals. Birds have a number of natural enemies, so you can scare the birds by fooling them into thinking their enemies are around.

A humming line made of very thin nylon will vibrate and hum in even the slightest breeze. It’s inaudible to us, but heard by the birds. This works well with strawberries. Unusual noises can be created with aluminum pie plates loosely tied to stakes or leaving a radio on at night. Installing some blinking lights, hawk-like balloons or kites that mimic larger birds can also be effective. And of course, the two old stand-bys - scarecrows, or a dog or cat - always help out with the bird problem. Because birds and other animals need a source of drinking water, eliminate any standing water near the garden.

Night time is prowl time for the four-legged pests. Each animal has a distinctive footprint and each has its favorite delicacy to munch on. Many of them, such as deer and raccoons, can be eliminated by putting an electric fence or other barrier around the garden. Pocket gophers can be stopped by putting a fence made of hardware cloth two feet below and two feet above the surface of the garden.

A chicken-wire fence works the best for rabbits, but the holes need to be 1″ or smaller. Those young rabbits aren’t very big. To keep the mice from eating your fruit tree’s bark, sink wire mesh or ” hardware cloth several inches into the ground around the fruit trees.

How can you tell which animal is doing the munching during the night? Footprints are one way. Another is to place about 10 marshmallows out in one spot where the animal has been feeding. Cats won’t eat the marshmallows. Raccoons and skunks will eat all of them in one sitting.

Possums will only eat one or two, and then come back later for another one. Some animals will only be eliminated by being caught in a trap. After they are caught be sure to take them at least one mile away and release them in a natural habitat. And, be careful not to get bitten. Rabies is a reality among wild animals.

Gardening saturates one with a feeling of accomplishment and peace. The joy of picking your fresh vegetables right before dinner can hardly be matched by any other activity. Well, perhaps the fragrance of your freshly picked flowers can compete!

Paul Babs is the owner and operator of Evergreen Lawns Resource to the gardening industry. For more information, go to: www.leegardening.com

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Stihl Chainsaws - Still Going Strong

December 31st, 2007 by Administrator

When people hear about STIHL, they think about old-world care and the handcrafted work of last century’s skilled artisans. This dedication to quality is what has made the Stihl chainsaw the most popular on the market over the last 80 years.

Stihl specializes in developing and manufacturing a wide variety of portable power tools, both gasoline and electric. When looking at purchasing a chainsaw, some due diligence should be performed, yet, I found when shopping around and asking pertinent questions, such as what brand should I look at, most of the time the answer was always…”well, you can’t beat a Stihl.”

Along with Stihl’s dedication and commitment to develop the ultimate product performance comes quite a long history of manufacturing and selling chainsaws.

Andreas Stihl developed the first electric chainsaw way back in 1926. At the time, professional loggers found his innovation very useful and were glad to take advantage of it. Andreas Stihl’s significantly improved the lives of many farmers and woodcutters who had to rely on laborious crosscut saws and axes to etch out a living. It was tough going. Timber harvesting was virtually revolutionized by Stihl’s invention.

Today,the use of Stihl chainsaws is no longer limited to the logging industry and has spread to other fields as well. The chainsaw has become such a versatile tool; while it’s use amongst professional woodcutters is wide and varied, it’s use has spread to the home owner, where the once arduous task of chopping firewood has now “become a breeze” through the application of the trusty chainsaw. The chainsaw has become an important part of the farming landscape; I remember growing up on our farm and learning to use a chainsaw at an early age. There were always trees that needed to be trimmed and land cleared. The landscaping industry have adopted the chainsaw as an important part of their make up. Contractors use of the chainsaw involves such things as cutting landscaping and cross ties as well as large timbers.

Stihl chainsaws have been constantly refined over the past 80 years. A reduction in weight and increased operating efficiency is a major reason why the chainsaw is no longer restricted to the professional woodcutting industry. Innovations such as the elastostart, anti-vibration system and improved shock absorption have catapulted the chainsaw to it’s level of versatility. Dual braking systems and the inertia activated chain brake are more reasons why Stihl has remained at the top of the chainsaw tree.

During the last few years, the company has joined the fight to protect the environment. It has come up with new ideas to develop techniques that decrease hydrocarbon emissions. This has been a blessing for people who work in restricted areas.

Andreas Stihl’s successors say that his commitment to quality has remained constant throughout the company’s history. Stihl has maintained it’s position in the power tools industry through that very commitment. And there are a lot of chainsaw users who would appreciate the lesser workloads they now face because of this versatile machine.

Dean Caporella is a professional Journalist and Sportscaster who takes an interest in a wide variety of topics. A country kid at heart Dean says… “Growing up on a farm, chainsaws were a common part of the country landscape.” Get all the latest news, views and reviews on chainsaws at www.chainsawlife.com

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