The Management Consulting Group

December, Cape Lookout Shoal: You break the inlet at 4:00am,
hoping to get an early start and scout the area in the dark. The
air is chilled and exhilarating this time of year in Morehead
City. Anticipation is high, as these are no ordinary tuna you
are hunting. The first baits are deployed in total darkness, as
the captain carefully monitors his bottom scope for signs of
bait and fish. As the sun cracks and the horizon becomes just
barely visible, the right long snaps hard and the 80wide starts
screaming. As you stare mesmerized while line is being pulled
effortlessly at 45 pounds of drag, the left long snaps and
starts screaming equally as fast. The Captain’s yelling “TWO ON,
CLEAR THE PIT”….as you continue to stare in amazement.

DESTINATION MOREHEAD CITY, NC Morehead City has become a
destination of choice for anglers seeking to tangle with the
largest tuna in the ocean, the Giant Bluefin. These migratory
fish take up winter residence at Cape Lookout Shoal off of
Morehead City, NC. Cape Lookout Shoal holds large schools of
menhaden at this time of year, which is what the Bluefin are
feeding on. The shoal runs out approximately 12 Miles from the
inlet. Often times, you’ll find yourself fishing less than 6
miles out. At other times, you may have to run up to 20 miles to
find the fish. Water depths range from as little as 30 feet to
up to 125 feet depending on where you locate the fish.

WHEN & WHERE Prime season for Giant Bluefin is late November
through early February. Generally speaking, earlier in the
season you can count on better weather and less chance of
getting blown out. The other advantage of fishing earlier, is
that the fish seem to congregate on the west side of the shoal,
whereas later in the season, the fish move to the east side,
which is a good bit further offshore. In November and December,
you want to start to look for the fish at the #8 “Trawler Buoy”,
which is only 6 miles offshore. In January, you will be more
likely to find the fish east of the shoal holding on wrecks like
the “Atlas Tanker” and “D Wreck”, which are both about a 20 mile
run. Large temperature breaks are common this time of year,
sometimes as much as 10 degrees. Working these breaks, typically
on the warm side, will often produce bites as well.

COMMERCIAL vs. RECREATIONAL FISHING One thing to understand is
that there is a large commercial fishery for Bluefin Tuna. Most
are shipped to Japan and bring high dollars at the dock. The
average Bluefin caught in Morehead City will sell for about
$2500, when they are in season. Exactly when this season occurs,
is an entirely separate matter. Best thing to do, is call
National Marine Fisheries (NMFS) and speak directly to them. Why
is this important to the recreational fisherman? When the season
is open, expect increased boat traffic and competition on the
fishing grounds. If at all possible, schedule your trip at
another time. In 2005, NMFS has initiated a commercial closure
on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, to allow recreational anglers
to target these fish for catch and release. Recreational fishing
is primarily a catch and release fishery, so don’t count on
taking your fish home.

THE FISH

The average fish caught out of Morehead is 80 to 88 inches,
which will weigh in from 300 to 450 pounds. Large fish over 96
inches, while not common, do get caught. A typical 96 inch fish
will weigh in at about 600 pounds. In 2004, there were also a
fairly large number of “undersized” fish caught. These fish,
less than 73 inches can often be boated, based on the NMFS
limits in place at the time. A 73 inch fish will weigh
approximately 200 pounds, depending on how it carries its girth.
On a typical day, expect about 3 bites. On a real good day, you
can get as many as 6 or 8 bites. Of course, it’s still fishing
and there are days when you will troll without a bite despite
all your best efforts. This fish, pictured at Seawater Marina
and boated by Capt. Bob Balut, measured 87 inches and weighed in
at 347 pounds.

TACKLE - BAITS - RIGGING UP

This is not light tackle fishing. Expect to use primarily 80’s
and 130’s and fight your fish from a chair. For the experienced
and seriously motivated, stand up fishing with 50’s and 70’s can
also be done. A great harness is a must, as you might be on your
fish for anywhere from 30 minutes to up to 3 hours! On the OVER
UNDER we are fishing Penn 70’s, 80’s and 130’s spooled with 150
pound power-pro, top shotted with 130 yards of 130 pound
monofilament. To the mainline, we attach a 200 pound wind-on
leader, crimped to 18 feet of 280 pound fluorocarbon, and last
but not least, a 10/0 Mustad 7691DT hook. We use all wind-on
swivels, with no snaps to reduce the chances of tackle failure.
The most common bait is a simple horse ballyhoo, pulled behind
an Islander. Colors that seem to work well are Crystal, Pink,
Blue & Pink, as well as Black & Crystal.

TROLLING SPREAD A typical spread consists of two flat lines
fished on large planers down deep, with two additional baits
pulled from the long rigger position. The planers are rigged on
about 60′ of 400 pound mono and tied to the stern cleats. The
main line is attached to the planner with a #64 rubber band.
With a little practice the planers can be easily tripped when
the lines need to be cleared in a hurry. Z-Wings also work well,
although somewhat more difficult to trip. The two long riggers
are pulled way back, almost to the point where we are into the
backing and past our 130 yard mono top shot. Typical trolling
speeds are about 7 knots, depending on current and sea
conditions.

THE BATTLE These fish are POWERFUL. Drag setting of 45 pounds
and more are the norm. Do not be surprised if you see “the knot”
a couple times at the bottom of the spool, during the course of
the fight. Smaller boats using stand up tackle, can turn and
chase the fish, while larger sportfish, fighting from chairs,
are typically backing down after them. The battle can last from
30 minutes to up to as much as 3 hours or more. Boat-side, if
the fish is to be released, photos can be snapped and typically
the leader will be cut, leaving the hook in place to quickly
rust out. If the fish is to be boated, flying gaffs or more
preferably darts are typically used to secure the fish to the
boat, before being bled, and eventually hoisted through the
transom door. If you don’t have a door, and even if you do, you
need to think about how to get these fish in the boat. A block
and tackle, as well as a come-along will come in handy!

WHAT TO BRING - HOW TO GET THERE - WHERE TO STAY The weather at
this time of year is somewhat unpredictable. Best to be
prepared. Foul weather gear is strongly recommended, along with
rubber boots, gloves, a hat, and warm loose fitting clothing.
When it’s your turn in the chair, you are going to want to shed
some layers! Hotels are plentiful on Atlantic Beach and rates
are quite reasonable, since this is the off season. Try the
Sheraton on Atlantic Beach (800) 624-8875, or Amerisuites (252)
247-5118 for starters. US Airways has commercial service into
New Bern, NC, which is about a 40 minute drive to Morehead City.
If you happen to have your own plane, or would like to charter a
flight, there is also a small municipal airport, Michael J.
Smith Field (MRH), right in Beaufort, NC, just a couple minutes
drive away from the docks.

When I was young, my friends and I would go tent camping at our favorite spot in the rolling hills of Pennsylvania. It is where I learned the art of fly-fishing for trout, trapping muskrats and hunting whitetail deer. To this day just the thought of those camping trips bring back wonderful childhood memories. Not only are the memories good, the lessons I learned have lasted a lifetime.

My one friend’s father would go with us on many of our camping excursions. When he was a young man he spent several years working for a logging company. We would load up in his old 4X4 truck armed with chainsaws, axes, wedges and logging chains and head out in search of fallen trees and logs that would later be used to build our spectacular bonfires. Each and every time we went out to do this he made us inspect the logging chains and cables before we would skid the logs out of the woods behind the truck. He told us to inspect where the hooks attached to the chains and inspect the chains length for the weakest link. I was shocked at the number of times we discovered a link that was cracked or broken. He explained what the results could be if a chain or cable broke under tension.

I have applied the weakest link lesson many times since then. During my time in the Army I was in charge of some very large maintenance operations. We would go on countless recovery missions to upright vehicles that rolled over, or to tow a sixty-ton M1 tank back to the maintenance facility. We would inspect and re-inspect the riggings, looking for the weakest link, before attempting to recover these vehicles. Since retiring from the military my passion has been with RV’s and once again I realized the importance of the weakest link lesson.

Every weight rating on an RV is based on the weakest link in the system. The tires on your RV are by far the most important and most neglected link in the system. I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve heard people say that the tires on their RV were defective, or my tires only had 12,000 miles on them when I had a blowout. In the majority of cases the truth of the matter is that tire maintenance has been neglected. The only thing between your RV and the road surface is your tires and the air that is in them. This is the weakest link.

What are some of the leading causes of premature tire failure?

• Overloading the tires
• Under inflated tires
• Ozone and UV rays
• Age of the tires
• Rotating tires

What can be done to prevent premature tire failure?

• Overloading the tires on your RV is probably the number one leading cause of tire failure. Poor weight distribution and taking advantage of all of the storage space offered on today’s RV’s result in tire overloads. The only way to find out is to have the fully loaded vehicle weighed on platform scales. Load the vehicle with everything you plan to take on a trip including passengers, cargo, fuel, full fresh water and propane tanks. If you tow something behind the RV take it to the scales with you. The problem is that it is quite possible to weigh the RV and not exceed the GVWR, GAWR or GCWR, but you could be exceeding the tire ratings. This is why you MUST weigh each axle end separately to determine if tire ratings are exceeded and if the loaded weight is properly distributed.

• Under inflated tires run a close second to overloading as one of the leading causes of tire failure. The load rating for a tire is only accurate if the tire is properly inflated. Under inflated tires cause extreme heat build up that leads to tire failure. The appearance of the tire looks normal but the internal damage is not visible and can fail at any time without warning. Tires can lose up to two pounds of air pressure per month. If you don’t check your tires for three or four months they could be seriously under inflated. Ideally you should check tire inflation, and adjust if required, everyday that you move or drive your RV. If you can’t get into the habit of doing it on a daily basis you need to make it a point to check all tires weekly at a minimum when you’re traveling. You always want to check the tires when they are cold, meaning that you don’t drive or move the RV before checking inflation. Invest is an accurate inflation pressure gauge. Check all tires and adjust pressure according to the manufacturer’s recommendation. Do no exceed the maximum pressure ratings found on the tires sidewall. Never check inflation pressure when the tires are hot, you will get a higher-pressure reading and if you let some air out they will be under inflated when they are cold. If you have dual wheels you will want to add extension hoses to the valve stems to make the job of checking tire inflation easier. A word of caution, if you add extension hoses you must replace the rubber valve stems with all steel valve stems. The added weight of the extension hoses can cause rubber stems to leak air resulting in under inflation.

• Ozone in the air and UV rays from the sun shorten the life of your tires. It is not uncommon to see RV tires with low mileage and plenty of tread that are ruined by the damaging effects of ozone and UV rays. Ozone in the air causes tires to dry rot and deteriorate. UV rays from the sun make it happen quicker. This is especially true of the tires sidewall. Inspect your tires for checking or cracks in the sidewalls. If you notice any damage have them inspected by a professional. There are basically two ways to protect your tires from these elements. Keep them covered with covers that will block out the sunlight when not in use, or for long-term storage remove the tires and store them in a cool dry place away from the sunlight. I also recommend that you place something like a piece of wood between the ground and the tires. Be sure that whatever you use is larger then the footprint of the tire.

• The age of your tires is another factor that contributes to tire failure. I learned this lesson the hard way. I bought an early model Jeep CJ7 to tow behind our motor home. After completely restoring the vehicle we were ready to try it out. The tires that were on it looked to be in excellent condition. There were no signs of damage from the sun and the tread looked as though they were used very little. We towed the Jeep from North Carolina to Florida and from there to Colorado and back to North Carolina with no problems. Shortly after that we towed it to Pennsylvania. A couple hundred miles into the trip a front tire blew out damaging the inner fender, shock absorber and an area below the door. I replaced the tire with the spare and within another 100 miles the spare blew out resulting in more damage. After getting a new tire and going back to pick the Jeep up along side the Interstate we took it to a tire store to have the remainder of the tires replaced. The technician came in and explained that the tires were nine years old and even though they looked to be in good shape they could not handle the stress put on them. He also explained that all tires manufactured in the United States have a DOT number. The DOT number on my tires was on the inside sidewalls. The last three or four digits in the DOT number identify how old the tire is. Older tires used three digits. The first two identify the week of the year that the tire was built and the third identifies the year. Newer tires use four digits. Again the first two digits are the week of the year and the last two identify the year i.e. 3202 is the 32nd week of the year and 02 is the year 2002. If you question the age of your tires, especially on a used RV, and you can’t find the DOT number have them inspected by a qualified tire center.

• Have you ever owned a vehicle and neglected to have the tires rotated and one day you suddenly notice that the front tires are wore out but the rear tires look fine? I’m sure that this has happened to most of us until we learned the valuable and expensive lesson of not rotating our tires. If one tire shows signs of wear faster than another tire it may be a signal that something other than normal tire wear is happening and you should have it checked. But if it’s just normal tire wear you can even out the wear and extend the life of your tires by having the tires rotated on a regular basis. Talk to your tire dealer about proper tire rotation intervals.

Tire failure can be extremely dangerous and can cause extensive damage to your RV. There are no guarantees, but by practicing good tire maintenance you can feel much safer and secure that the weakest link on your RV will do its job while you’re out exploring this wonderful country we live in.

Happy Camping,
Mark

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America’s most highly regarded series of DVD’s, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/

Mark Polk is a retired U.S. Army Chief Warrant Officer Three, specializing in wheeled and track vehicle fleet maintenance operations. In addition to owning and operating RV Education 101, (based in North Carolina) since 1999, Polk also has a very extensive RV background working in RV service, sales and management. Polk has a degree in Industrial Management Technology and his 30 plus years of experience in maintenance includes working as an RV technician, a wheeled vehicle and power generation mechanic, an automotive maintenance technician, Battalion and Brigade level Maintenance Officer, an RV sales manager and also in the RV financing department as the Finance & Insurance manager. http://www.rveducation101.com/

If you have had trouble planting a tree the River Birch is a
choice that is easy to transplant. They are adaptable and grow
fast. These trees do not seem to be bothered by the Bronzed
Birch Borer which has killed off many White Birches used in
urban landscape near Lambertville NJ.

When I was in the 8th grade I would go fishing along the
Delaware River at night. I would camp along the river bank and
fish into the wee hours of the night. I am always drifting back
to those childhood memories when I pass a river birch tree that
is highlighted by lights at night. The nightime interest that
this tree expresses can help capture moments for you. The main
feature of this medium sized spreading tree is its colorful
peeling bark. This builds up on the stem and main branches in
soft curling layers of orange, pink, grey and brown. Another
great advantage of this species is its tolerance of wet soil and
seasonal flooding making it an ideal pond or riverbank tree.
Specimens often develop multiple stems which increases the
attractiveness its shaggy bark. As an ornamental tree it also
has bright green, toothed leaves and long yellow clusters of
catkins in early spring. It will have a spreading root system
that will check erosion. It is hardy and will seldom blow down.
The plant is native to the eastern states from Massachusetts to
Florida. The range continues along the Gulf of Mexico and into
Texas.

At most nurseries you could expect the following prices on
birches (Not all sizes and types shown) Betula Nigra Dura Heat
River Birch 6-8′ clump $125.00 8-10′ clump $150.00 Betula Nigra
Heritage River Birch Clump 6-8′ clump $150.00 8-10′ clump
$175.00 12-18″ seedlings @ $2.00 ea. and 1250 18-24″ seedlings @
$3.00 ea. If you need more help on selecting plants go to the
following web Sites: http://www.zone5trees.com
http://www.seedlingsrus.com and http://www.highlandhillfarm.com

This article is designed to help New Hope Pa. residents select
plants and shrubs for hedges. Not all plants that are suitable
are listed here but most common and easy to raise ones are
listed.

Hedges are one of the major components of your landscape.
Hedges define the limits of your landscape and thus should be
the starting point in your landscape design. Before selecting
plants, you should carefully consider their landscape
requirements and the characteristics of the plants. For example,
deciduous plants drop their leaves in the fall and are effective
screens mainly during the growing season. Evergreens provide
good screening all year. Gardeners considering a sheared, formal
hedge should realize that they may need to be pruned (sheared)
several times a year to remain attractive. In comparison, an
informal, natural hedge is relatively low maintenance. Select
shrubs that grow to the desired height. Planting a tall-maturing
shrub where a short, informal hedge is desired creates work.
Many landscaping problems are prevented by selecting the correct
planting material.

Our plants are well suited for many hedge plantings. We sell
many types of plants and shrubs which can work well as a natural
privacy boarder. Bare-root material is the most economical type
of nursery stock when planting a hedge. However, bare-root
plants are rather small. For the beginner, bare root is the
hardest type of plant to grow out. Container-grown and balled
and burlapped plants are larger, but are more expensive. You
will have better luck with potted and B&B stock…The added cost
will be worth it. Most B&B and potted stock can be planted
whenever the ground is not frozen as long as you have the
knowledge to help the plants along.

Plant spacing is determined by the plant species and hedge type.
Most plantings will range from a spacing of a foot or two to a
couple of feet. Many people will plant the shrubs and fail to
prune them back hard. Pruning generally will make the shrubs
more dense and compact.

The following is a list of shrubs suitable for hedges that we
sell:

Amur maple Acer ginnala 15 to 18 feet natural Barberries
Berberis species 1 to 5 feet natural or sheared Boxwood Species
2 to 4 feet natural or sheared Redosier dogwood (D) Cornus
sericea 8 to 10 feet natural Burning bush (D) Euonymus alatus 6
to 15 feet natural Junipers (E) 8 to 15 feet natural Beautybush
(D) Kolkwitzia amabilis 8 to 10 feet natural Spirea VanHoutte
(D) 6 to 8 feet natural Lilacs (D) 4 to 15 feet natural Yews (E)
Taxus species 2 to 10 feet natural or sheared Arborvitae (E) 3
to 15+ feet natural or sheared Arrowwood viburnum (D) Viburnum
dentatum 6 to 8 feet natural American Cranberry (D) 8 to 12 feet
natural

When you visit Highland Hill Farm at 5275 W Swamp Rd. (rt. 313)
Fountainville Pa. we will be happy to show you these plants. You
can also go to our web site http://www.seedlingsrus.com

Camping is an activity that I spent most of my forty plus years believing I had no interest in and absolutely no use for. And don’t you just love it when circumstances present themselves which shatter long standing beliefs?

After the passing of my dear mother, it was her wish that my family and I did something that would enhance our togetherness in her memory. For weeks, I struggled with how I was going to fulfill her wishes. Nothing seemed just right, and the few ideas I had just didn’t seem “lasting” enough.

Then, one day I stopped into a local grocery store that I seldom use, but it was convenient at the time so I rushed in through the front door, with only my urgent grocery needs in mind. As I was passing their bulletin board with local ads, business cards and such, a flyer jumped out at me with the following words in big, bold lettering:

Family Camping is Just What You Need!

Well, I certainly didn’t think my family “needed” camping, but for some reason that headline compelled me to take a closer look. Below the headline, there was a photo of a motor home for sale and the flyer went on to say that the seller’s wife had just passed away and he no longer could maintain the motor home by himself and was forced to sell. He said the motor home would be perfect for a family looking to enjoy the togetherness that camping afforded, and for which he and his wife had so many fond memories.

Jumping ahead about six weeks…

My husband and I found ourselves backing our new travel trailer into our driveway excitedly for the first time, with no idea of the joy this box on wheels was about to bring to our lives. We didn’t end up purchasing the motor home shown on the flyer, but we did go look at it and got quite a camping education from the seller. And it was that visit which put the notion into our heads that perhaps camping would be a wonderful experience for us and our two daughters and the lasting memories would be a fitting tribute to my own mother as well.

How we found and picked up our new toy is another story in and of itself, and I will blog about it very soon. But for my purposes here, I want to illustrate the merits of staying open to any possibilities that cross your path, because you never know when a new adventure is right around the corner.

Because we got our trailer late in the season, we only managed to squeeze in three camping trips before the winter weather set in. But oh what trips they were! From the very first campground we pulled into, it became abundantly clear that this was the best investment we had ever made.

I had never relaxed on a vacation so much and enjoyed nature and the outdoors to the extent that our new hobby permitted. And our children played, explored and had experiences that will remain with them for life. My husband, well, let’s just say he’s already looking at our next trailer and he will gladly take any proud camper up on the offer to “look inside,” and show him around their “perfect,” model.

So, I will say this to you… If a headline jumps out and you and says: Family Camping is Just What You Need! – Take 2 minutes to stop and consider the message, you may be very glad you did!

Stephanie Mulac is a Motivational Coach and owner of http://www.90PercentAttitude.com, a website dedicated to helping Marketing Professionals Make Money With Websites on the Internet by developing a positive, winning attitude and providing online encouragement to others who don’t have a support system in their lives. For additional camping information, visit http://www.RVCampingTips.com.

Handy Sleeping Bag Hint

A handy hint for making the most of your sleeping bag no matter what quality it is, is to get a bed sheet made [ sewn ] into a
Sleeve/envelope to act as a liner to fit snugly inside the bag; this will make it easy to clean when you return home from your adventure, just pop it into the washing machine and ready it for the next trip. If you are like me and sometimes if it gets too hot you can open your sleeping bag to let out the heat a bit and still feel comfortable inside the sheet. A more warmer version would involve the sheet being made from a warmer type of material like flannelette for those cold encounters.

Survival Hint

A clever idea to keep warm if you find yourself sleeping overnight without a tent or a sleeping bag, is to collect the ashes and coals from your fire, build a shallow trench, pour the coals along this trench evenly and backfill the soil evenly and carefully to make a warm soil bed; not the same as your bed at home but could make the most of an uncomfortable circumstance.

Healthy Water

After dinner when you are all sitting around the campfire at the end of the day, make some tasty soup, make some toasted bread on a stick or torture some marshmallows; boil some water for the next day if you are unsure of the quality of the water you will drink; boil as much as you think you may need to kill any germs or bacteria that may be in the water and let it cool overnight so the next day you will have enough safe drinking water and don’t need to worry about a sore stomach to spoil your great adventure; it may not taste as good as red wine but you can trust it.

Cooler Trick

When we go away on our adventures we always take along our cooler which we load with bottles of frozen water that we have already boiled and know wont explode in the freezer at home, this way we have good quality water on hand to help keep the contents of our cooler nice and cool [ obviously this is only good for a few days ] and my wife makes a fantastic fruit salad that we freeze in those square “take away” food containers and readily stack, to give us easy meals at any time.

Insulated Hot Water Containers

Before filling those insulated containers for your hot coffee/tea/soup; prefill with hot water to warm the inside of the container and this will keep the contents warmer longer.

Silly Question;

What freezes quicker; warm water or cool water… answer; warm water!

The author; Donald Vanderlugt is the webmaster of http://www.campingandgear.com where a comprehensive selection of quality brand name camping gear can be found; tents, sleeping bags, folding gear, and hundreds of other related articles with free shipping, discounts, and freebies. So next time you need to get some great camping gear at the right price dont forget http://www.campingandgear.com

It’s almost that time again to pull the family RV out of moth balls and go have some fun!

As April approaches, the calls to me begin stacking up from concerned RVers. I’m a mobile RV Tech and every spring I encounter the same question from RVers across the country – “What can I do to get my unit ready for camping season?” So I want to pass on some RV information and a few simple tips to, hopefully, save you some time and money and help you get your rig ready to roll!

Awnings

On a sunny day, extend your awning to air it out. Trapped moisture may have caused mildew which will damage and stain the fabric, so use a hose to rinse it off. You can scrub down a vinyl fabric with mild dish detergent; for canvas or cloth, your favorite RV Dealer can supply you with an appropriate cleaner. Allow it to dry thoroughly before retracting.

Run the awning in and out a few times to ensure smooth operation and check that the travel locks work and that all hardware is secure.

Propane System

This is a good time to fill your bottles or tanks and check for leaks. Spray a leak detector (available at hardware stores) or soapy water around the connections and regulator. If you see bubbles (or smell propane at anytime), you should have the system tested. Don’t take chances with your propane system - it’s not worth it!

Never overfill your propane tanks. Propane expands and contracts drastically with temperature changes. Any vessel holding propane should not be filled more than 80% to allow for expansion.

A major problem arising from overfilled tanks is this: all appliances on RVs use the propane vapor (not the liquid) from the tank and propane contains a certain amount of oil. If a tank is over filled, the liquid (and oil) can get into the system and do some real nasty things. I often see the oil ruining regulators and any oil getting past the regulator can clog the lines on the coach. If you ever see a ‘pulsing’ flame on your stove top, or if your furnace works great on a warm night but not on a cold one, you may have oil in the lines!

Batteries

Batteries are finicky things. Some last for years and others crater soon after being installed. After charging the batteries, I use a hydrometer to check the specific gravity. Any auto parts store sells easy-to-use hydrometers. Follow the instructions and test your batteries. Remember: a 25 point differential between cells means you have a bad cell and the battery is “kaput”!

If the batteries check out OK, clean the connections, make sure they’re snug and apply an anti-corrosion spray.

DC Electrical System

After the batteries are hooked up, check your DC accessories and lights. If not working, check the fuses and connections. If you find a blown fuse, you need to investigate. Mice, squirrels and other critters can build nests, chew wires and cause all kinds of problems that you’ll need to correct. Never increase the value of the fuse; you could turn a small problem into a big one!

If all appears well, ensure the converter is working properly. Do this by using a voltmeter to check the battery voltage. When a battery is fully charged it should read about 12.6 volts. When you plug in to shore power and the converter starts working, you should see 1 to 1.5 volt increase and if the lights in the coach get a little brighter, you should be good to go.

A/C Electrical System

With the coach plugged into shore power you can check the electrical outlets with a hair dryer which puts a good testing load on the system. Check the GFCI, (Ground fault circuit interrupter). It’s that little button you play with (usually while sitting down) in the bathroom. Push the test button and the reset button should pop out. If it does, push the reset button back in until it clicks. If it doesn’t, you have a problem and need to have it repaired. Don’t run with a defective GFCI. These little gizmos save a lot of lives every year! They’re there to protect you and your family.

Sewer Valves

These are one of the most over looked items on an RV. Before you run any water into the tanks, check to make sure the valves all move freely. Anything other than medium pressure to operate them might suggest it’s time for new ones. A broken black tank sewer valve is an RV Tech’s nightmare and a big expense for the customer. These valves are under 10 dollars and are usually quite easy to replace.

Water Systems

If your unit was winterized with good quality antifreeze, your water lines might be sufficiently sanitized, but filling the holding tank and using bleach tablets or other sanitizing product is a good idea. I flush mine every year. It’s good practice, especially if you use a variety of watering stations throughout the season.

Another thing often overlooked while de-winterizing is changing the position of the water heater by-pass valve. There are a few different types of bypass valves so get to know how yours works. Valves in the wrong position will cause a lot of grief and may give you the impression the water heater isn’t working properly.

The water pump is one of the best tools to alert you to a leak in your water system. Pressure up the system and listen for a few minutes. If the pump remains quiet and doesn’t kick in and out, quite likely the system is ok. If it runs on and off, get your flashlight and check the lines and water accessories for leaks. The only two things I know of that will make the pump burp on and off is a water leak or a defective switch on the pump.

**An air compressor is a handy thing to have for the next few tips …

Water Heater (Pilot Model)

On a pilot light model (one that is lit manually), blow any debris out of the chimney (the opening where the fire is lit) and out of the burner assembly. Even a spider web in the burner assembly can shut down your water heater, so make sure it’s clean! Wear safety glasses and stand aside while doing so.

Next, make sure the water heater is full and light the pilot light. If it lights quickly and stays lit after the button is released, great! However, if the flame is small, the orifice might need cleaning. If the flame is good but it won’t stay lit, unfortunately you may need an RV Tech to install a new thermocouple or gas valve.

If all is well, turn the gas valve to “ON”. With all propane appliances we are looking for a nice, blue flame. Allow the water heater to get to temperature and run some hot water until the heater re-lights. If it does, you’re set to go!

Water Heater (Auto Light or DSI Direct Spark Ignition)

As with pilot models, clean thoroughly with air. Make sure there is water in the tank and the switch is in the “OFF” position.

The only real owner-serviceable part on this water heater is the electrode - the gismo that sparks when lighting. Check the gap between the electrode and ground (most units require the gap to be 3/16 ths of an inch). If the gap needs adjusting, you may want to replace it. You can adjust it yourself, but use caution not to break the porcelain around the electrode. If you do, you’ll definitely need a new one.

Turn the heater “ON”. When it reaches temperature and shuts off, run some hot water. If the heater re-lights, the flame is a nice blue, the water is reheated and it shuts off again, you’re good to go.

If you turn the water heater on and it struggles to light or lights and quickly goes out again, you’ll probably need to contact a technician.

Furnace

There are really no owner-serviceable parts on today’s furnaces. One thing I suggest is to fire it up and cycle it a few times to see if it lights and shuts down on demand. At the first of the season, I run mine for about 10 minutes with the door and windows open. This gives the furnace a bit of a workout and airs out the vents in case little critters are raising a family in there!

Refrigerator

Again not many owner-serviceable parts but there are some things we can do to ensure it’s working properly. When fridges operate on propane, the chimney becomes coated with a brown, flakey soot that, if not removed, can fall onto the burner assembly and shut down the fridge.

You’ll need to remove the lower outside cover to get to the burner assembly. With the fridge “OFF”, use your air compressor to blow upwards into the chimney to remove any soot. Thoroughly blow out the burner assembly. While you’re there, look up inside the fridge compartment for any blockages. During long periods of disuse, squirrels, birds and other critters can make nests up there and block the airway. It’s critical to keep this area clear - if the fridge can’t breathe, it won’t work properly.

AC Units

On the roof, visually inspect the condition of the cover and the fins on the back side of the Air Conditioner. If the cover is cracked or broken, change it right away. If it breaks apart while you’re driving, it can cause severe damage to the internal working parts of the A/C (not to mention the problems created when it lands!)

Weather often damages the radiator on the back of the A/C unit. Like fridges, these units need to breathe, so if the aluminum fins are flattened or pushed in they need to be straightened. There are inexpensive kits you can buy to do this; it just requires a nice day and a bit of patience.

If you have a good power supply going to your RV, turn on the air conditioner and run it for 10 or 15 minutes to ensure that it is cooling.

Wheels and Brakes

Every year someone unnecessarily burns a wheel bearing off of their unit and it’s very expensive to fix! The standard I preach with great conviction is this: “Have your bearings and brakes serviced every 2 years or 10,000 miles.” If you follow that rule you will, in most situations, be safe from harm.

Remember, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Well, there you have it – a few easy-to-do tasks that may well save you big bucks at the repair shop. So, strike out for the RV vacation you’ve always dreamed of and – HAVE FUN OUT THERE!

About the Author

Tim Collard is a noted expert in the field of RV Repair, Operation and Maintenance, having been a self-employed RV Tech for over 11 years and auto electric specialist for over 20. His service is in great demand on both sides of the border.

Tim is the producer and host of “RV Walk-Thru”, an extremely informative and often comedic video dedicated to helping all RVers - veterans and novices alike - learn and understand how things work on their RVs.

For more information on Tim and his video, we invite you to visit http://rvwalkthru.com

For most people, outdoor cooking is synonymous with barbeque, but there are many other ways to cook outdoors. If you have been camping, you are probably at least familiar with the portable propane stoves which provide a burner or two similar to the stovetop burners you have at home. In addition, you may have also heard of dutch ovens. However, I am thinking most people who have not been involved in scouting have probably not heard of box ovens.

This past weekend I attended camp with my son’s cub scout pack. As part of the camp, they worked on their outdoorsman badge, which includes cooking outdoors. The first night of camp the boys all made box ovens. Then we used the box ovens to cook two meals.

The construction of a box oven is quite simple. Basically, you take a cardboard box, cover it on the inside with aluminum foil (wrap it top to bottom and tape it on the outside). Construct a cardboard lid also lined with aluminum foil. (While cooking, this should be weighed down with some convenient item such as a rock.) Finally, push rods made from coat hangers through the center of the box to serve as a rack to place food on. The box should be big enough to fit an pan inside and big enough that your

Cooking with the box oven is quite simple. The rule to remember is one charcoal briquette will account for approximately 25 degrees (Fahrenheit). So, if you are baking something that requires 400 degrees, use 16 briquettes.

In the morning, we cooked breakfast biscuits in our box ovens. We used the type of biscuits where you just crack open the tube, separate them and put them on a cooking sheet. We used a disposable aluminum pan which we saved to use again at lunch.

We also cooked eggs in a bag. This is another creative way to cook which allows for easy cleanup. Basically, you take a couple of eggs, crack them into a zip-lock sandwich bag, add bacon (pre-cooked), cheese, salt and pepper to taste. You seal up the bag being careful to remove as much air as possible. Then you drop the bag into boiling water. For the boiling water, we used a propane stove.

At lunch, we used our box ovens again to cook “pigs in a blanket” (hotdogs wrapped in biscuits), and cobbler.

For the cobbler, we re-used the aluminum pan from the morning. We took two cans of cherry pie filling, dumped them in the pan, poured a box of white cake mix on top of that, and then carefully poured a can of 7up on top of that. No mixing involved. Then we baked it until it looked done. Easy as can be, and it tasted great!

Now I’ve been thinking it would be fun to try baking a pizza on the next camp-out using a box oven. We could buy one of those pre-made crusts, a jar of sauce, cheese, and pepperonis. The kids would love it, and the cleanup would be easy.

Speaking of easy cleanup… for the cub scout camp, we were asked to bring mess kits, and that is what most of us used. However, if you cook with a box oven and also use disposable plates and utensils, you could easily manage to avoid doing any dishwashing.

So, the next time you go camping, don’t just cook, cook creatively. Whether you use a box oven or some other creative method, you’ll feel better after a long day of hiking or other fun outdoor activities if you have an enjoyable and fun meal when you get back to camp.

The author, Greg Bonney, is the owner of Bonney Information and E-Commerce and founder of Scoutcamping.com (http://www.scoutcamping.com).

Copyright © 2005 Bonney Information and E-Commerce.

Adjacent to the Valley Forge National Historic Park outside Philadelphia,
although not affiliated with it, nestled in the wooded hills above the Schuylkill River, is a unique, little known living memorial dedicated to the men and women who have sacrificed and, often times, given their life in service to America. The Medal of Honor Grove, conceived in 1942 and located on the grounds of the Freedoms Foundation at Valley Forge, is a 52-acre woodland memorial commemorating all those awarded our nation’s highest award for valor in action against an enemy force which can be bestowed upon an individual, the Medal of Honor.

You will hike with your dog along an attractive serpentine path that visits
memorials to Medal of Honor winners from each of the 50 states, Puerto Rico and
the District of Columbia. Each is represented by a one-acre plot highlighted by a
seven foot-seven inch high fiberglass replica of the Washington Monument obelisk.
Attached to the obelisk is a state seal, dedication plaque and a list of Medal of
Honor recipients accredited to that state.

To date, 25 states have replaced the standard white fiberglass obelisk with a
distinctive granite or marble obelisk in their areas, all using stone native to their
state.

The Freedoms Foundation at Valley Forge and the Medal of Honor Grove can be
reached from Valley Forge National Historic Park by continuing west on Route 23.

I am the author of over 20 books, including 8 on hiking with your dog and the
widely praised The Canine Hiker’s Bible. As publisher of Cruden Bay Books, we
produce the innovative A Bark In The Park series of canine hiking books found at
http://www.hikewithyourdog.com Articles in the Doggin’ America series of dog-
friendly parks can be found at http://www.DogginAmerica.com During the warm
months I lead canine hikes for hikewithyourdog.com tours, guiding packs of dogs
and humans on hiking adventures. Tours, ranging from one-day trips to multi-day
explorations, visit parks, historical sites and beaches. My lead dog is Katie, a
German Shepherd- Border Collie mix, who has hiked in all of the Lower 48 states
and is on a quest to swim in all the great waters of North America - http://web.mac.com/crudbay/iWeb/Katies%20Blog/Katies%20Quest.html

There are many choices when it comes to buying your first fly
rod. As an avid fly fisherman for the past 25 years, and having
taught a wide range of different age groups and skill levels
.This is what has worked best for me and the people I have
taught over the years.

Graphite - A graphite rod, although it is more expensive
due to the fact that it is made from a high end material is the
perfect choice for the beginner. It will be light and pliable
very durable and will provide a smoother cast.

Action - Flyrods come in a wide varity of different
actions (bending resistance) slow, medium and fast. Medium
action rods are more limber and offer a good choice for
beginners since they are easier to use and can handle many
fishing conditions.

Weight - 4 to 6 weight: This is also very suitable for
trout, panfish and small bass. A 4-weight is perfect for
delicacy and finesse, while a 6-weight works best on big waters
or in windy conditions. The middle weight - 5 - is the most
versatile for trout whether you want finesse on spring-fed
creeks or bigger, wider rivers.

Length - 8′ - 9′: These lengths are good fits for trout
and bass fishing. The longer length will give you more casting
range and will improve your line control.

Grips - There are many styles of grips and materials
used, this will end up being a personal preference. The grip has
to be something that you are comfortable using all day.

If you want an all-purpose and well balanced fly rod, look for a
5- or 6-weight rod, 8-9 feet in length with a medium to
medium-fast action. This combination will tackle nearly all of
the fly fishing situations you may encounter.